 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: claren11
Date: 2004-01-06 14:22
My daughter Michelle states that the keys on her clarinet sometimes don’t move as freely as she likes. She has a Buffet R13, which was purchased several months ago.
Ken, her clarinet instructor, recommends that she apply key oil about once a month, using a key syringe oiler. In fact, Ken uses 10/30 motor oil because the key oil is too thin and runny. Also, her instructor states that if you were to apply bore oil, this would give the clarinet a darker tone. On another note (no pun intended), I am also wondering about using a clarinet humidifier because of the cold winter days ahead.
What are everyone’s thoughts regarding key oil, bore oil, and humidifiers.
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2004-01-06 14:34
claren11 wrote:
> Ken, her clarinet instructor, recommends that she apply key oil
> about once a month, using a key syringe oiler. In fact, Ken
> uses 10/30 motor oil because the key oil is too thin and runny.
That's way more oil than I've ever used - too much oiling can cause more problems by causing dust and grime to get into the long tubes and causing more havoc. There is probably an underlying cause that isn't being addresses if a clarinet so new is binding consistently so soon - perhaps a slightly bent long tube. Since it's under warrantee, I'd have it checked out.
> Also, her instructor states that if you were to apply bore oil,
> this would give the clarinet a darker tone.
Hmmmm ... I've not experienced any change in tone color the few times I've oiled my clarinet's bore. I wish it would get a bit "darker" (meaning less high-end partials) - my 10G emphasizes the high end more than I personally wish!
Buffet does not recommend oiling any new clarinet.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2004-01-06 15:20
Mark raises V G questions, on much-discussed topics. As to key oiling, I agree on avoiding too-frequent oiling, I usually put a few drops of motor oil [a distillate oil, 10/30] into a good [cl maker's] key oil. I oil my wood's bores about once a year, lightly with almond/apricot oils on a brush/swab, just finished, since in cold weather [3 F this morning!] the humidity falls VERY low, and I fear cracks possibly from playing-moisture absorption. I also store my best woods in our most humid room with an open pan of water, to try to keep the hygrometer needle between 40-50%. I rather doubt that oiling will "darken" the tone quality, it does darken the wood's appearance! The question of oiling is presently under discussion at "bass-clarinet@yahoogroups.com" and may be of interest. Luck, Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: hans
Date: 2004-01-06 15:29
Steve,
10/30 motor oil is formulated to run in hot automobile engines and contains numerous additives for that purpose. It probably has too high a viscosity for use as key oil, which could be why your daughter's keys don't move freely. Key oil needs to be "thin and runny" so that it can penetrate into areas where it is needed. And, as Mark has said above, over oiling can cause problems.
I have never noticed that oiling the bore affected the tone either.
Hans
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2004-01-06 16:23
My 2¢ worth, although it may look like more: Mark is 100% correct. My instruments have never been oiled more often than annually, and no oil is put on the mechanism until all tubes etc. are cleaned thoroughly. After reassembly, the mechanism is checked for smooth operation, which it should have with no oil at all. Then a *very* small amount of oil is added to each friction point carefully, so that no oil runs onto the wood. Consistent with Mark's comment, just adding oil to a Clarinet that has not been cleaned will make it oilier than it already was, and more dust that falls on the instrument will be retained if it touches that excess oil. More dust will then grind those moving parts every time a key is pressed.
No self-respecting watchmaker ever would oil a mechanical timepiece without first cleaning it. Treat your Clarinet at least as well as you would an old watch.
A non-volatile oil does not evaporate, so it goes nowhere unless it runs away. And due to surface tension, a small application is less likely to leave the area. If you see dark goo between a post and the end of a tube, this results from dust and rust captured in oil that's trying to get out. If you see none of that, there's most likely no need to clean and oil. MOO. By the way, some commercial oils are partly volatile, so that some components will evaporate away, leaving a thick sludge behind. Add more oil to that, and you have a nice oily sludge. Yecchh.
True it is, "Buffet does not recommend oiling any new clarinet." It might be added, "whether it needs it or not." To my way of thinking, that is a wrong attitude. Of course, I do not back the warranty on your Clarinet; they do. So it's smarter to do things their way while the fate of your Clarinet is in their hands.
And if your clarinet is within warranty and some keys are not moving freely, it's time to take advantage of that warranty.
When any sort of oiling is needed, do check The Doctor's Products (BB sponsor) for the very good stuff Dr. Henderson offers. Paying a few bux for an excellent product is a lot easier than formulating your own.
Regards,
John
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2004-01-06 21:28
For key oil, sewing machine oil (applied with a syringe) works well for me. For oiling the bore (which should not be done very often!) I like Dr. Henderson's bore treatment, and if I don't have that handy my fallback is almond oil. Your mileage may vary.......
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Author: Mark Pinner
Date: 2004-01-07 09:55
It sounds like the instrument was not set up before sale. If it is under warranty get it seen to in case problems develop down the line.
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Author: William
Date: 2004-01-07 14:50
Another factor might be that the clarinet is rather new and the key action has not been "broken in". The action is always slow on new clarinets and it just takes time and use before the keys becomes loose and smooth. I've had my bass clarinet for about a year and one half and the key action is finally becoming fluid. As for oiling, I never oil my keys--but I do take my clarinets in every year for an annual checkup and the technician always oils them then. Bore oil?? I own about 15 wood professional grade clarinets of all sizes and have never oild any of their bores, nor experainced any cracking or warping as a result. Never used a humidifier either--just do a lot of playing keeps my main instruments in shape.
Give your "several months" old clarinet a few more months (or a year) before doing anything drastic with the key action. New keys always improve with age--like many of us.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-01-07 15:17
Even on brand-new, top-brand French clarinets, it is common for pivots to bind.
Even with no oil at all, there should be zero sluggishness in correctly set up mechanism. Therefore oiling will not solve your problem. The problem is friction caused by poor setting up of the mechanism. And there could be several other sources of friction apart from in the pivots.
Get it serviced.
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Author: markeymark
Date: 2004-01-08 01:36
Putting oil on your keys and "placing a drop on the joints" is like pouring a can of oil on the top of your car engine. Useless. The oil must be in the engine to work - and similairly in your clarinet. If you have a "sticky" key, it should be removed, the pin removed, cleaned, and oiled. Then adjusted when reasembled. That is the only way to do it in my humble opinion.
As for bore oil - it will not hurt (within reason) and I do believe that it does help to condition the wood and prevents cracks as the oil will act as a barrier to excess humidity an moisture from your breath.
As for sound... I doubt that anyone can tell the dif.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-01-08 02:58
That was a bit extreme!
Sure, it is BEST to remove the key for ideal oil distribution where it is needed, but applying it to the 'cracks' and leaving it for a few minutes before wiping off any excess is a method of getting most of the oil in the right place.... Unlike pouring oil over a car engine.
The method is a valid and necessary alternative when time, hence expense, is a consideration, and where there is a shortage of the necessary expertise for removing and replacing keys without risk of creating problems.
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