 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: BobD
Date: 2003-11-16 20:34
I have recently restored a Noblet metal Bb clarinet to playing condition. In order to get the lower chalmeau notes to respond properly I've had to resort to a #2 reed. I've tried various mps but with any reed stronger than #2 the lower chalmeau notes "want" to overblow to a higher register. Is this a common metal clarinet way of acting? All pads are new and although two could seat tighter (with spring changes) most seat reasonably tight.
At this point I'm wondering if metal clarinets act more like saxophones than wood and plastic horns.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2003-11-16 21:47
Bob - It sounds to me more likely that you have a slightly-leaking pad [hope its not a leaky tone-hole] higher up on the cl, where it can act like a register key. Maybe something else, but not inherent to metals, IMHO. Ask Jim Lande, our expert! Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2003-11-16 22:55
Examine the throat G# key screw that rests on the throat A key. Just a quarter turn too much clockwise can make all the difference, raising that pad just enough to ruin the low Chalumeau notes. Otherwise, my bet is on an improperly seated pad. (Don't look for "reasonably tight" in pad seating. They are either seated properly, or they are not.)
Regards,
John
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Author: BobD
Date: 2003-11-16 22:56
Thanks John and Don, appreciate your experience. Bob
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2003-11-16 23:22
I'd just like to offer my experience as a player that this was the exact problem my clarinet had just a week ago. It was fixed by replacing the G# throat pad which turned out was leaking slightly (due to a torn skin). The best part is, it's such a cheap thing to fix! If that is the problem that is.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: Dee
Date: 2003-11-17 00:22
Metal clarinets act exactly like wood or plastic ones. So as all the others have indicated, you have a small leak somewhere.
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Author: ned
Date: 2003-11-17 05:23
Yes I have a problem too, when I try to play my Meyer m/p on the same instrument on which I use my regular m/p - a Vandoren 5JB. The Meyer is described on the box as "medium" tone chamber, "6" tip opening, and "medium" facing length - I really don't know how this compares to the 5JB actually. I bought one because a colleague plays Meyer exclusively and has a lovely tone.
Just on the point of leak testing though - the way I was taught is to disassemble and block all holes and blow hard. You can't always locate the leak this way [I'm assuming I have a leak you see] so if there is better way, I'd be grateful to know.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2003-11-17 13:37
Thanks to everyone. So, I'm tentatively concluding that I've got a leaky pad either caused by poor seating or a weak spring and will proceed accordingly.
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Author: William
Date: 2003-11-17 14:14
Just wanted to add that my Noblet metal clarinet plays very well throughout its entire range. No reason for you to expect that yours should be any different, except for a slight leak somewhere. They are great fun to take on a jazz gig--mine is gold lacqured and it is often mistaken for a soprano sax.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2003-11-17 14:52
Bob: An easy way to check yours is with assistance from someone else. Play the instrument so that the problem appears, and have a helper squeeze down each pad rather forcefully, one by one, from the top down. When the problem disappears, the offender has been found. Reposition that pad for a better seat, then try again. If one pad was a bit off, perhaps another is, too.
If nothing works from this trial, you may have a pad that's really positioned quite badly. In that case, a leak light will no doubt help..
Regards,
John
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2003-11-17 14:58
As noted above by a few folks, a metal clarinet should play and sound just like a wood one if it's in a good state of repair. I had fun just last night playing my metal Moennig Brothers clarinet in jazz band --- one of the other reed players, a young fellow who had apparently never seen a metal clarinet before, was amazed that it sounded just like a clarinet!
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2003-11-17 15:57
Bob -
This is almost certainly a leak. On a metal instrument, in addition to a pad, there could be a tiny hole in the metal body, or one of the welds at the metal joints is leaking. An old repairman's trick is to take just the upper and lower joints, light a cigarette, pull smoke into your mouth and blow the bore full, then block the bottom against your knee and blow. The smoke will come out where the leak is.
For a less unsanitary solution, and remembering that water can't hurt metal or pads, put a cork in the bell, submerge the instrument in the bathtub and blow hard. You should see a line of bubbles coming out somewhere.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Lon Roach
Date: 2003-11-18 04:52
I acquired a metal Silva Bet A clarinet some years ago. When I decided to put it into playing condition I repadded it but it always played stuffy in the low register and would occaisionally squeek elsewhere. Drove me nuts cuz I couldn't find a leak. By chance I found a small hole in the body of the insturment , not much larger in diameter than a pin, near the middle joint. ( This horn is not a continuous tube like some metals) The clarinet was built with a a stop piece extending from the lower joint which was to contact a pin protruding from the body of the horn on the upper joint to aid in alligning the joints. Someone in ages past, not realizing the pin was there, probably just gave the thing too healthy a twist putting it together wrenching the pin right out of its hole. Because of its position it didn't affect anything above middle C but caused problems below. A little silver solder took care of the problem. Also found regular pads didn't fit the low E and F cups. A repair friend found some flute pads that would fit. Good luck.
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Author: paulwl
Date: 2003-11-30 18:43
Anybody play a Conn 524N (singewall metal, 5pc, late '20s vintage)? Do they all have that raspy throat tone (worst on G & G#) that seems to center on the tonehole hidden under the A key spatula?
I've tried 3 (including the one I eventually bought and had overhauled) and they all had it. Any ideas on what could be done by a competent repairperson?
(Replies involving sockets, cords, or shades will be thrown away immediately upon receipt. ;-) )
Thanks!
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