 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: reed_squawk
Date: 2003-10-24 16:09
My wife is an antique hound, and I get drug along often. The only way I can bear the outing's is to bring a book along... but, I have discovered that nearly every store we visit, there will be a few musical instr's... mostly junk, but occasionally a gem...
This is how I got into playing the clarinet actually...a couple years ago I found my Noblet (wooden with diamond emblem engraved...anyone know it's general value?) at a store for a mere $75...it was in totally playable shape too...I have never played one, but always loved them, and used to play sax, so had some idea how to get going.
Anyway, since beginning to really get into playing this thing, I am noticing that there are a plethora of clarinets at these antique stores...I found one the other day with another fingering sytem (Albert I guess?)...
My question...can anyone give me some general guidelines on what would make one buyable vs not? For instance... does -any- crack in the wood make it useless? Is there a way to tell if one is pitched at something other that A=440? etc...
Thanks all, think I will post this on the other board as well,
doug
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2003-10-24 16:56
Are you planning to play them "as is", restore then play them, make lamps out of them, or what? If you intend to play the old clarinets, be prepared to get them overhauled first. Make sure (a) they're Boehm system, (b) they're marked "LP" (for "Low Pitch" which is basically our current A440 tuning) and avoid "HP"(obsolete "High Pitch" tuning at A455 or thereabouts); or if not marked either way measure the length of the clarinet --- instrument assembled including mouthpiece should be 26-3/8", I believe it is. Absence of any cracks is preferable of course, but don't preclude buying an otherwise good clarinet because of the presence of a crack or two --- most can be repaired. Have fun! Vintage clarinets rule! (Stand by for flames from the feared Buffet Mafia.........now known as the "Rutland Group" Mafia?)
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Author: ron b
Date: 2003-10-24 17:02
I don't know of any written guidelines that can adequately substitute for first-hand roll-up-your-sleeves experience, Doug.
Cracks are no cause to sentence a clarinet to the junk heap. It all depends on what the horn is and what you want to invest to make it playable. As a sideline (slack time) hobby I buy and sell, primarily, student instruments. Mainly, I look for name brands that most musicians (teachers, band directors, music store owners) will easily recognize. Then, I determine how much time/material it will take to fix it, just what it will take to 'restore' it, against what I think I can expect as a reasonable profit. Remember, for me these have to be priced in the "beginning student range" - cheap. In my case, unless it's a super-duper-standout-classic, it has to have all its keys and screws, well - most of 'em anyway, and no serious damage and be priced around $40(USD). I've recycled quite a few Bundys and Vitos this way over the past four years and they're still tootin'.
If you're looking for older horns and other fingering systems, the mark H.P. or L.P. (high pitch or low pitch) will quickly determine whether it's worth considering. If it's not marked, either haggle for under ten dollars (for parts) or have your mouthpiece and tuner (and some masking tape) with you at all times.
- r![[cool]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/cool.gif) n b -
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Author: reed_squawk
Date: 2003-10-24 17:37
thanks for the input guys...I would be looking for good quality vintage horns, realizing that they need to be restored (even though I got lucky on my Noblet), and planning on using them myself...I have an interest in the alt. fingering system one I found the other day now that after reading on this board that the Albert system is apparently preffered for Klezmer, which I have an interest in...if nothing else, it would just be cool to have...it was really nice wood, though the keying mech. needed serious work...I think I could get it for well under $100
I am thankful for the info about the standard length, and that LP actually means 440.
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Author: ned
Date: 2003-10-25 01:01
"If you intend to play the old clarinets, be prepared to get them overhauled first. Make sure (a) they're Boehm system, (b) they're marked "LP" (for "Low Pitch" which is basically our current A440 tuning) and avoid "HP" "
David S - any particular reason for suggesting Boehm rather than Albert/Muller/simple? I don't think Doug would care particularly, given his intention and given his sax background, he could adapt to non-Boehm equally as easily, I suspect.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2003-10-25 01:58
I don't think it's Dave's prejudice against anything except Boehm shining through. More likely his knowledge that it's much easier to sell a Boehm Clarinet, at least in most places -- eh, Dave?
I would suggest in general that a bell or barrel crack is not a big deal, but unless you are experienced in looking at 'em, most upper joint or lower joint cracks (especially if the crack extends into a tone hole) are usually not worth repairing on an older instrument unless the Clarinet is otherwise a rare jewel.
Generally stay away from instruments with keys that will not move. Maybe they never will. And if anything looks rusty, eek.
But if you run into an obviously very old instrument that has few keys (from none to three) and no register key, maybe with ivory rings, just buy it.
Regards,
John
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2003-10-26 22:50
I only recommended against purchasing a non-Boehm if the intent was to play or sell the instrument afterwards --- even a saxophonist should learn Boehm since that's by far the prevailing system, and it would be much harder to sell an Albert, I think. I have no personal biases, just practical considerations.
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