 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Morrigan
Date: 2003-05-09 16:07
Hi guys,
I have cork and leather pads on my R13 Bb. The leather pads in the low E and F keys are beginning to slightly stick, and the movement of the keys slightly difficult, like they need oiling or something.
The last overhaul I had was a very thorough one, it cost a LOT and it cost so much because my repair tech. said I wouldn't have to get another overhaul for 2 to 3 years. I shouldn't have believed him!!!
Anyway, since I will be getting a new pair of clarinets and selling this one, I don't think it's worth paying to get something done about it. If I sell this horn to a student, it wouldn't concern them in the slightest, but for me, or a pro, they would notice and it would eat away at them while playing!
My question is, is there anything I can do just to keep it going for about 3 or 4 more months?
Thanks again guys! =]
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Clarence
Date: 2003-05-09 16:32
Make sure the screws aren't too tight. Also try to clean the seats and pads the best you can.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2003-05-09 16:59
Morrigan -
If the problem is that the leather pads are sticking to the rims, the solution is easy. A standard repair shop trick is to slip a (U.S.) dollar bill under the pad, press down on the pad cup and pull the bill out. It has just the right amound of abrasiveness to remove the crud. Presumably an Australian dollar bill will do the same.
If the rods are binding, this is due to shrinkage of the wood and is not the repairman's fault. As a temporary fix, loosen the top screw for the low E key rod (just below the right ring finger hole) about 1/8 turn. Then take it back to the shop to have things ajusted.
Next, an ethical point. You shouldn't foist off a problem on a beginner, who's a human being like you, and doesn't know what the problem is. Suppose a pro were to do the same to you?
Finally, give the repairman a chance to do the right thing. Take the instrument back, speak gently and give him glowing compliments, and he's almost sure to fix it for free. You catch more flies with honey than with vinegar.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: William
Date: 2003-05-09 17:29
i never have "complete overhauls" done on any of my clarinets or saxophones, but rather opt for timely "check ups" (playing condition only) during which only the real problems are corrected--usually costing between $30 to $60 a pop. There is not reason why one has to all-of-a-sudden replace all the corks and pads as an expensive annual repair routine. Playing condition only "tweeks" will keep your instrument playing supurbly for years and years--if you take the time to swab and care for it.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ron b
Date: 2003-05-09 18:38
I agree with Ken about the ethics of this situation. Don't give someone else your problem - fix it... with lots of 'honey'.
If you're within the three year 'verbal agreement', take it back to your tech. Most of 'em will do what's necessary to keep it going (without charge). After all, it's the tech's reputation too because you were told the repairs would last for a reasonable time. Three years is reasonable.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Avie
Date: 2003-05-09 22:00
I also agree with Ken. I am also curious about a couple of things. The age of your clarinet, exactly how long has it been since your last overhaul and what was done at the repair shop during that time. I would carefully attempt to free up the pads and free up the keys before taking to the tech. I agree that a clarinet shoud play for years if kept up to par as soon as a slight problem occurs. I think that once a clarinet player learns to understand the instrument it would bennefit greatly to be his own mechanic and at least make a good attempt to solve the problem before taking it to a tech. It will give you a better understanding of the instrument and also make you a better player. Sorry Techs!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ron b
Date: 2003-05-10 01:46
Most techs I know would wholeheartedly agree with you, Avumba, about maintaining your instrument. Most techs I know also would do any reasonable adjustments within a reasonable time period - without charge. Especially if the horn's going to be sold... it's good advertising to have it working right. "So-and-so fixed my horn" is good (free, in a sense) advertising, no?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Mark Pinner
Date: 2003-05-11 02:52
Our Australian notes are made of some sort of plastic/polymer and useless as an abrasive. We lost our dollar notes, an attractive mottled brown, sometime around 1983/84 and replaced them with a stylish faux gold coin. The demise of the two dollar note, a greeny turquoisey creation, occured a couple of years later when it too was replaced by a faux gold coin which for some reason is smaller than the one dollar. The smallest denomination of note is the five dollar and alas paper notes have all but disappeared except for the odd $100 or $50 left in circulation which of course we musicians are lucky to ever see.
1200 grit wet and dry or even ordinary 80GSM copy paper would have a similar effect. A waterproofing treatment will probably stop it from happening and there are a number of options available. Another helpful hint is to stop drinking soft drinks before, during or after playing. In my workshop I every second instrument that comes through has pad damage or gunge built up that is caused by sugary drinks.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: diz
Date: 2003-05-11 22:44
Mark- the only good thing about our crappy plastic bank notes is that they survive the washing cycle quite well.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-05-11 23:43
Mark wrote, "In my workshop I every second instrument that comes through has pad damage or gunge built up that is caused by sugary drinks."
Personally I think this is a much over-worked explanation. There is no sugar in moist air from lungs. Even if a player DOES blow some saliva into the instrument, there are very few pads that it will contact.
There are many other reasons for sticking pads. including (amongst many) the waterproof treatment of some leather pads, black timber treatment, and pads being too large in diameter and jamming against the body of the instrument outside the tone hole itself.
We have the plastic bank notes in NZ as well.
If the timber has shrunk, and the keys were a good fit between the posts, then loosening screws will do nothing.
I agree, give the technician a chance to look at it.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Morrigan
Date: 2003-05-13 06:33
My Buffet R13 is about 3 years old. I had a complete overhaul because the original pads that came on it were rotting and I wanted to keywork to be softer to press.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
