 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: ctt489
Date: 2003-04-25 15:33
Just noticed this after practicing on my A - the upper and lower joints when put together 'wiggle'...for lack of a better word.
Should I have this checked? My Bb there is no movement between the joints at all.
Thanks
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Tom Piercy
Date: 2003-04-25 15:45
Yes, have it checked. It should not be having the "wigglies."
It could possibly be as simple as replacing the cork on the bottom of the upper joint where it goes into the lower joint.
Tom Piercy
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Henry
Date: 2003-04-25 15:46
I had the same at the barrel/upper joint connection. All you need is new cork at the joint, done by a reliable tech.
Henry
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: allencole
Date: 2003-04-26 01:21
When in college, my upper and lower joints tended to get stuck, and I had them slightly bevelled by a repairman. BIG mistake. Today, I experience at least limited wiggling which makes it difficult to use the gap between the joints to aid in tuning. Cork replacement improved things, but my next (and last) clarinet will have tenon rings, I think.
Allen Cole
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-04-26 02:15
The function of the cork is largely to seal and to stop the joint falling apart. Wiggle is caused by a sloppy fit between the wooden parts of the tenon either side of the cork, and the tenon socket. If there is much more than about 0.15 mm difference in these diameters then wiggle can be a problem not correctable by cork replacement. I overcome this by making silver rings from sheet metal of appropriate thickness, and gluing/'forming' them onto those tenon ridges.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BobD
Date: 2003-04-26 12:39
Theoretically, I suppose, if the wood of the tenon and matching socket are exactly the correct dimensions there would be no wiggle even without cork.
If they are not exactly correct ,but the cork is, then there will be some degree of wiggle. Over time one may expect that there will be some degree of wear of the exposed wood of the tenon and/or the wood in the socket. I have one horn the mid-socket of which is tapered and caused wiggle which I corrected in my amateur way by tapering the cork on the tenon. Certainly not a fix a pro would let go out of the shop.....
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-04-26 16:59
"If they are not exactly correct ,but the cork is, then there will be some degree of wiggle. "
True. An interesting phenomenon. It is my guess that if the fit of the timber is close but not perfect, the wiggle will be there, as you say, but not noticed by the player if the movement is so slight that the static friction between the cork and the socket is not exceeded.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2003-04-27 14:39
Well said twice, Gordon, it sounds to me that a well-fitted tenon ring would solve this wiggle problem. I hadn't thot of using the term, static friction [we sometimes shorten it to "stiction"], applied to clarinets, very appropriate. Its usually more applied to braking, vehicles, etc. Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ctt489
Date: 2003-04-29 22:45
Its an R13 A no mettal above cork or below so I don't know what he means in the article.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Wayne Thompson
Date: 2003-04-29 23:09
ctt,
He talks about tenons both with and without a metal cap. If you read it again carefully, it's all there.
Let me try to summarize; I actually did a simplified version of his fix. Beware of superglue; if it gets in your eyes, it's a true medical emergency. If it gets on your fingers, they'll stick on things pretty good and be a big nuisance.
You want to make the part of the tenon that extends beyond the cork bigger. Apply superglue to that part of the tenon with a toothpick. Do not get it on the cork. If the wobble is not remove with on application you might need to try applying a latyer to the part of the tenon above the cork, since this also affects the looseness of the joint. Superglue comes in different types. Most normal ones are wet and thin almost like water; that's what you want. The tenon will merely be wet with a microscopically thin layer. Let it set or dry for an hour. You've added a few thounsanths of an inch to your tenon. See if it fits better. My clarinet had an irritating wobble, and I was afraid to pull out at all. One application of the glue on the end of the tenon made it perfect. That's how small of a space will make the problem. I guess if you got too much glue on there, the tenon will want to stick. If so, carefully remove the glue. I think it is an easy and safe fix, but if you are not comfortable with the small possibility of having to remove the glue and to try again, you had better not try it in the first place.
Not everyone is good with their hands; if this seems like too much trouble, don't do it. But the bottom line is that a wobble at the joint is not a big deal. Don't put up with a wobble. If you can't fix it, your tech should be able to.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
