 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Julia
Date: 2003-04-09 23:28
Hello,
I have a question about repairing something on my clarinet. I know little about repairing instruments, so I will be taking it to a repairman that I trust. However, I was just wondering what some of you who do repairs might do in a situation like this.
Just the other day I noticed that the lower joint of my clarinet had a chip in the wood just below the cork where it attaches to the bell. If you hold the joint so that you're looking at it down the bore, the chip is v-shaped. It's small, but its kind of deep and I'm worried that it might cause future problems. As of now, its not affecting anything. I noticed it because the chip was completely detached, however I do have the small piece of wood and it can stay in place.
I have aboslutely no clue how this happened. I suppose the only way would be if I had whacked it against something--but I must have been putting my instrument away or taking it out, and it would have to have been something very hard that I hit it against...and I must have hit it hard.
I'm very careful with my clarinet and am paranoid about anything happening to it, so I don't know how it could have happened.
Anyway, for all you repair techs, I'm interested in knowing how you would address this if such a case were given to you.
Thanks a lot!
Julia
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2003-04-10 00:42
Julia,
The chip can be glued back with some cyanacrlyate (super glue). It may or may not hold. I would clean the area around the chip with some MEK, lighter fluid, or similar to get the oils off. Tape areas you don't want the glue to run with regular cellophane tape. A small chip may need to be held by tweezers. Inspect the tenon carefully to make sure a crack doesn't extend past the chipped area.
If the offending piece doesn't stay, then perhaps the chipped area can be filled. This is done with glue and grenadilla or black wood chips. The area can be built up and blended in.
Finally, a tenon cap can be installed. A tenon cap is a metal ring around the end of the joint. I do not have a lathe and usually send this type of work to a shop that does.
The piece will not affect your sound. It's purely a cosmetic flaw. However, most of us want our instruments to look right.
jbutler
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Author: Avie
Date: 2003-04-10 01:07
I would probably take a chance and find the right glue but if the chip is not internal and is held tightly in place I would probably just leave it as long as the clarinet tone didnt change for the worse. My better opinion is probably to take it to a reliable clarinet tech before possibly ruining a valuable instrument. I have a similar problem with my cracking 1964 R13 but it still has good tone. The clarinet tech said it will eventually crack completely thru but dont know when. This doesnt solve your problem but I hope it helps.
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Author: Fred
Date: 2003-04-10 01:43
avumba, I'd get your '64 R13 fixed now if it were mine. My R13 of that same era is a great clarinet, and I'd fix it in a heartbeat if it had that problem. Why wait until the problem is critical?
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Author: Avie
Date: 2003-04-10 02:22
My clarinet tone, pads & spring action are still good. The cracks are only cosmetic and no worse for two years. Its still has a solid wall of .25 Inch internally. The tech at the music shop didnt seem to think it was urgent. Its already a major repair job. If it gets critical I will do what I hate to do. I have a selmer that I can play when it goes to the shop. I am open for any other suggestions. Good luck with your 64 R13. It is a great instrument. Thanks.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2003-04-10 13:30
My opinion is that the chip is "just" an indication that a crack exists and that you shouldn't try to glue it. Get it to the repair shop asap.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-04-10 14:03
I am in total agreement with jbutler. The superglue and granadilla dust seems to bond very well with the timber, and the result seems stronger than the original. It is just a tiny section of 'Greenline'. :-)
This area often chips without an associated split. It is quite likely that it occured during machining, where there was a weak area in the timber, but the chip fell out later.
If you wish to test for a split, just press firmly outwards from the bore with your thumb. A split will part. It is visually obvious. If there is a split poke a pin into it to keep it apart, fill with superglue, and quickly remove the pin before the superglue sets.
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Author: Avie
Date: 2003-04-10 21:46
I think that if we are not mistreating an instrument the reason for it cracking is probably some original flaw in the wood. I would like to hear more from people that have experienced this type of problem to learn from it. I see many ads stating no cracks. We should all come forward on the subject of cracking or chiping so we could possible prevent it or know what to do if it occurs. I am all for a wood flaw warranty on both new and used instruments. Thanks for bringing up the subject Julia.
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