 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Joan Carter
Date: 2003-02-16 02:13
I've been playing on a new Prestige A clarinet off and on since I received it last night. After I played for about an hour today, I absolutely could not get it to play C, the second line above the staff. I could only get agrowly throat tone. It would play the D right above, but could barely get outthe B, A, or G below the C. What is going on? I swabbed and blew out the tone hole to no avail. I thought it might be a mysterious, instant embouchue problem I have developed, so I checked to see if I could play the same range on my Bb. Yep, the notes were clear as usual. Does anybody have any ideas? I decided letting the clarinet rest, but can somebody tell me what is going on?
Thanks,
Joan
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Author: Mitch K.
Date: 2003-02-16 02:25
I had a similar problem with my new R13 when I got it a few years ago. The problem with my horn turned out to be a problem with/in my register tube. Luckily my grad school professor was close at hand; he played it, determined the problem, then bent my register key so that it wouldn't open up so much. If you're like me, and a bit squeemish about bending keys on a new horn (I nearly fainted!), the same effect can be achieved by putting a small, folded piece of paper underneath the register key up against the thumb key. Or, you can also put a small piece of black electrical tape in that same spot. Ultimately what I ended up doing was having a repair tech put in a shortened register tube for me.
Mitch King
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Author: Mike
Date: 2003-02-16 03:28
Don't overplay it. New clarinets need to be broken in. I hate to mention the possibility of a crack...
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Author: beejay
Date: 2003-02-16 12:05
I think the screw on the A key needs a slight adjustment. You should let a technician do it, because this is delicate. But it shouldn't take more than two minutes to fix.
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Author: Synonymous Botch
Date: 2003-02-16 13:38
Yeah, don't Baby this thing... sounds like a temperature dependent
leak or misalignment (it's a machine, things will need tightening).
Getcher self a wine cork or other stopper to fit into the bottom reach of both keyed sections.
Cork the bottom, close all the toneholes and blow into the opposite end. Hear any whistling? There's your leak.
Start in the upper section, first. Little leaks will magnify problems lower in the key ranks.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2003-02-16 14:49
I agree w: Beejay, the purpose of that %$#@ set-screw on the G# key is to "coordinate" its opening with the A key, BUT it doesnt need to be "exactly" tight to be effective. I leave it with a minor degree of "slop", particularly if there is no cork "bumper" on the A key, so as to prevent the G# from standing slightly open with changes in temperature, pad thickness [seating] etc. While even a new student should have a small screwdriver, to keep the PIVOT screws tight, the temptation to adjust the G# set-screw MUST be suppressed, untilthe lesson is learned. Don
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Author: Forest Aten
Date: 2003-02-16 17:02
Joan,
As others have mentioned....look to the adjustment screw on the A key.
If the tolerance on this adjustment was really close, (as you played it) you might have rotated the screw into a position that held the A key slightly open. This is not uncommon.
Use a small screw driver and turn the screw counterclockwise until you have a small gap between the A key and the key below.
Best of luck,
Forest Aten
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Author: Terry Horlick
Date: 2003-02-17 00:22
The adjustment is <b>not delicate</b>. Just get a small screwdriver that works and back the screw out (counterclockwise ... or anti-clockwise if you prefer) about a quarter turn and play it. If that doesn't fix it the go another little bit. Try again etc. When you get it to start playing then consider going another 1/4 turn.
I like to hold down the G# key and then feel if the A key can start to open when you push on the key. I try to set it so I just barely detect movement of the A key.
Remember it isn't delicate... if you loosen it too much you can easily tighten it back up. Don't back the screw all the way out... you'll never fine it in the carpet! A new horn shouldn't have the screw stuck so if you have to force anything just stop and get help.
IMHO TH
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Author: GBK
Date: 2003-02-17 01:31
The nylon screw on the A key does have a tendency to creep (weather/humidity related?).
I'm not sure when Buffet changed from the metal screw to a nylon one, as all my older R-13 (pre 200,000) have metal screws.
If the nylon screw continues to be the problem, it is (thankfully) a minor item to change or replace with a metal one...GBK
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Author: Joan Carter
Date: 2003-02-17 02:02
Thank you! It was the A key adjustment, and my clarinet and I are working together happily now. My Bb, a year old, does not have the nylon screw.
Thanks again,
Joan
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-02-17 10:02
Hopefully that means they'be got rid of the nylon screws that tear apart so easily.
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Author: Bob
Date: 2003-02-17 14:08
The nylon screw probably seemed like a good idea to someone who didn't realize how hygroscopic nylon is. Hooray for its demise....
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-02-18 16:59
Quite! I guess that is what makes it jams, which leads to the detruction of the weak head when an attempt is made to turn it.
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