The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: NickRachwal
Date: 2016-06-22 07:53
Hey guys! i am just wondering if there is anyway i am able to restain my hard rubber clarinet from the 40's back to its original jet black color. it has turned a drab olive-brown color and i am very displeased with the look. I hope there is a method where hard rubber can be stained. Please respond with different methods on how to stain hard rubber if there are
Post Edited (2016-06-22 08:09)
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Author: Dibbs
Date: 2016-06-22 13:52
I've never tried it but these people sell a dye for old hard rubber pens.
http://www.pensburymanor.com/
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Author: tucker ★2017
Date: 2016-06-22 16:00
I'd contact Tom Ridenour. www.ridenourclarinetproducts.com Seems like if anyone would know, he would.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-06-22 16:01
I think some have used some kind of oil soap to restore the finish, but I've no idea what - only don't use hot water with ebonite as that will make things worse.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2016-06-22 18:24
I've tried the dye for hard rubber pens and it wasn't very successful. What I do now is to prepare the instrument by removing all the keywork and washing it down with alcohol to remove any traces of grease or fingermarks. When its completely dry I apply an even coat of Fiebig's leather dye using a cotton bud. If necessary, apply a second coat after 30 minutes. When the last coat is dry wipe the instrument with a damp cloth to remove any surplus. Any dye that goes onto metal parts just wipes off with no staining.
It's available though a number of outlets, just Google it. The colour you want is USMC Black. I was put onto this by the Ridenour website, it's the way they do it. I've restored several old hard rubber clarinets using this and it's bulletproof. After 6 years my old hard rubber Imperial still looks as though it was made this morning. When I bought it, it was a sort of gungy olive green. The dye is completely fast and won't come off on anything. I wouldn't use this on a mouthpiece, but I've no problem using it on the instrument body.
Tony F.
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Author: NickRachwal
Date: 2016-06-22 18:47
Tony, sounds great il try it! but a question how did it look. was it a smooth finish? Also, after you restored the clarinets, were there any signs of the dye coming off?
Post Edited (2016-06-22 18:58)
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2016-06-23 04:41
After its been rubbed down its a completely smooth finish. This isn't a coating process, you're actually changing the surface colour of the body material. The oldest restoration I've done has been in daily use for 6 years now and shows no sign of the dye wearing off. If it ever does, it's a simple matter to touch it up where necessary.
Tony F.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2016-06-24 08:24
I used pure isopropyl alcohol. Avoid rubbing alcohol, it often has an oil dissolved in it, and that's what you're trying to get rid of. Methylated spirit should be OK.
Tony F.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2016-06-26 03:41
91% is probably as pure as you can buy commercially. As long as you let the parts air-dry it will work just fine.
Tony F.
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Author: Burt
Date: 2016-06-26 10:12
After about 50 years, my mouthpiece turned brown. The inside and the area covered by the ligature were hardly discolored. I attributed it to prolonged low level UV exposure from sunlight and fluorescent lights. I can't imagine that oil was the problem.
I don't have the mouthpiece any more.
Burt Marks
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2016-06-26 12:58
The discoloration is caused by the sulfur in the hard-vulcanised rubber oxidising on the surface of the material. I had an old Selmer mouthpiece that went green with age, although it still played well. I was reluctant to use anything on it that might not be good for me, so I decided that I'd use all-or-nothing methods and attacked it with wire wool soap pads. It removed the surface layer but left the crucial parts of the mouthpiece intact and the material was again its original black. I still use the mouthpiece and 5 years later it's still black.
Tony F.
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