 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: OpusII
Date: 2006-09-04 12:48
Is it possible to swedge a key that has about 2mm of free play?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-09-04 12:57
Not really, it's best to do a barrel graft (soft soldering a piece of plated barrel onto the key, cutting part of the original barrel away to fit the graft) rather than swaging otherwise the barrel will be very thin at the end, and also very brittle due to being work hardened, and you'll probably end up losing the plating.
Depending on the key, barrel grafts can be done fairly inconspicuously.
If you don't want to do a barrel graft, you could always make a shim to take up the end play, though it's not an ideal solution.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: OpusII
Date: 2006-09-04 13:27
Thanks for the fast response Chris, I'm glad that there's a way to fix the problem :o)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-09-04 14:26
Which key has 2mm free play in it?
And was it like this since new, or has it been shortened recently?
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: OpusII
Date: 2006-09-04 16:02
It is the B key that has about 1,5mm (measured today) free play since it was new.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-09-04 16:32
Is that the LH B lever or the RH B key?
If it's the RH B key, the end play could be due to the lower pillar being bent or loose (check the F#/C# key for end play - if it's tight then it's just the lower pillar, if there is movement in both the E/B and F#/C# then the upper pillar that holds both keys could also be bent or loose), but if it's the LH B lever, that's due to over fraising during assembly and it's easy to do a barrel graft on this one.
And if it is the RH B key, this key can't be swaged as the barrel is solid - only the ends are drilled to take the point screw which will mean an insert will need to be fitted.
You should be able to tighten up the point screws (both top and bottom ones) to take out the play, but it will leave a large gap between the pillars and the key.
I assume it's an Opus II you have, judging by your screen name - so the point screws should be headless permitting a good amount of adjustment. Make sure the key still moves while you tighten the screws, and if it binds, back off the screws until there's a very small amount of play in the key.
But to be honest, your clarinet should have never left the factory or have been sold with it being like this, and it should be sorted out under warranty.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2006-09-04 16:43)
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Author: OpusII
Date: 2006-09-04 20:03
Quote:
But to be honest, your clarinet should have never left the factory or have been sold with it being like this, and it should be sorted out under warranty.
I've to agree, that's why I've send it to the best repairman I know.. If he can't do anything about it, then I will return the clarinet to the factory.
It's the RH B key and you've been a huge source of knowledge! Thanks
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-09-05 01:29
Chris wrote:
"And if it is the RH B key, this key can't be swaged as the barrel is solid - only the ends are drilled to take the point screw which will mean an insert will need to be fitted. "
I have on several occasions, extended such a key at least a mm, maybe 2 mm, by swedging.
I do it with narrow swedging pliers, in a series of locations along the CENTRAL part of the key. Then tidy up a bit with wider swedging pliers.
The narrowing of diameter can be spread over some distance, so as not to damage cosmetics too much.
Be careful to do equal twisting both clockwise and anticlockwise, or you can get a serious twist misalignment between the fixtures at each end of the key.
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