Author: vboboe
Date: 2007-07-23 18:07
-- echo HautboisJJ comment, it's good to debark and grade down the butt ends of cane about 3-5mm and lightly score across the division line between barked and debarked area (i add other score lines above and below for luck, but those cross-hatches sound good too) and i've found doing this is actually more helpful for ensuring a smooth transition of the winding thread from cane to tube
-- most of my cracks usually begin at the throat (top of tube) not at the butt end
-- so i've found it helps me to pre-soak cane longer than half-hour before tying, this seems the most reliable thing to do to prevent cracking while tying on -- rule of thumb is soak cane for tying on long enough so it sinks AND no air bubbles left on cane surface (that is, it's sodden right through)
about 2-4 hours should do it, use tepid water, leave at comfortable room temperature (in a covered container to exclude dust)
-- this is way too much soaking for playing or even cutting a new reed, which is why it's it works for me to tie up several blanks, dry them out at least 24 hours and cut them into reeds at another time
-- i usually 'tip' my blanks (70mm to fold) by debarking the tip to the fold right after tying on, before drying, this settles the cane into a flatter aperture while drying and discourages the aperture from gaping too wide after clipping open later
-- sometimes i also rough-in my blanks before drying, defining a tip apex and cutting the back windows to the catches (leaving bark on everywhere else), this saves some time when making a new reed later
-- i've also found it very helpful to dip the cane in hand-hot water for 30-60 seconds directly before tying on, especially in winter when the room temperature may be quite cool, this temporarily softens cane some more and helps shape it around the tube quite readily
-- also i've found starting the wrap at appox 43mm (4mm behind top of tube) and tautening each wrap a little bit more up to 47mm less likely to cause cracks, and helps shape the throat quite gently (as compared to wrapping directly at 47mm which is a sudden pull on the cane to shape it around the tube)
-- remember to pencil-mark the cane exactly level with top of tube so you don't overtie cane past 47mm, and after that hold it in place so it doesn't shift up or down
(if you use shorter staples, use that length instead)
hope some of these things help to reduce your laundry basket wastage :-)
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