 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-08-11 10:22
Does anyone know if there is a website or a book that would list the specs for - Oboes in general - I am basically looking to purchase some key cork the synthetic kind for under the adjusting screws - I am debating on 1/64 or 1/32 of an inch.
I can use regular cork but that gets too worn out and might throw the key out of adjustment - so i need a good pad material. Any suggestions ? and any suggestions for thicknesses for the vent adj screw ?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-11 10:35
1/64 tech cork is the better thickness of the two. Use contact adhesive for it just as you'd use with natural cork.
Only use natural cork on key feet and use tech cork everywhere else.
If you're using it on any sliding linkages, then coat it with graphite from a 2B or softer pencil to make it slippery.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-08-11 20:43
Thanks Chris - I remember you mentioning something about what you use - it was not cork it was something else, I forgot. Also when you say sliding linkages -what is that ?
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Author: Hotboy
Date: 2019-08-12 00:01
Many repair techs I know of use thin leather for padding against adjustment screws because it wears well and compresses less. The most obvious use of this is on the G#vent, but I've seen it on many other adjustment locations that have screws.
Dane
Bay Area, California
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-08-12 06:01
OK thanks - for the info but I already ordered some 1/64 size of synthetic cork.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-12 11:37
This is the stuff - they have it in all manner of thicknesses: https://musicmedic.com/products/repair-supplies/materials/cork-products/techcork-sheets-125-mm-x-100-mm-sheets.html
0.3mm to 0.4mm is a good general thickness for under adjusting screws, linkages and discs glued to the body (under the LH1 fingerplate adjusting screw) on all oboes and cors.
If you want more sound absorption in some places or with a bit more give (such as the linkages between the joints and the disc or semicircle glued to the G# pad cup), then 0.5mm is better for that.
The sliding linkages are where there's sliding motion between two separate and linked keys - the trill key overlevers, the Ab-Bb trill overlever, the LH F link overlever, the split D#-E trill overlever, the low C# overlever and anywhere else that has an overlever or linkage piece that slides against another piece of keywork. Also the forked F vent pad cup can benefit from having its key cork graphite coated to make it slide against the rocker easily.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2019-08-12 11:43)
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-08-13 07:47
Ah thanks again Chris - I got my pad from Valentino synthetic cork - it even has a self stick back - but I did have to use some contact cement on an area that had old adhesive that was smooth to the key but would not come off - so I did not want to make a big deal out of it - it was for the upper register adj screw.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-13 14:46
Valentino peel'n'stick synthetic cork if I understand (and still use the same formula they did in the '90s) is a high density foam that's not good under adjusting screws nor any linkages as it compresses easily and the adhesive backing makes it sticky. Buffet and Schreiber used it with disastrous results.
The only place I used a similar thing (probably thinly cut polyurethane foam) was on the undersides of the low C and Eb touches purely for cosmetics, but it didn't take well to contact adhesive and peeled off and got dubbed the name 'yellow $#!t' at Howarth.
Tech cork, rubco, gummi-kork, etc. is a high density rubberised cork with far better properties compared to thin foam or natural cork when used on keywork (under adjusting screws and other linkages).
It can't be sanded easily, so has no use under key feet that need to be sanded to regulate them and no good for tenon corks as it may initially work, but once it compresses it doesn't recover well. Amati used it for sax crook corks in the '80s and they all had to be replaced once the mouthpieces no longer fitted. And while on about saxes, the only place I use it on saxes is on palm key feet as it has hardly any give. Yanagisawa use it extensively on their saxes and it's far too hard and noisy for that.
Any old adhesive residue can be removed from keywork with acetone or alcohol - only don't use acetone on anything plastic.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-08-29 06:50
Thanks Chris - I did get 3 thicknesses 3.,.4,.5 and they work great ! I only used the .3 one for the vent adj screw but - yea you are right the synthetic cork is like a sponge.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-30 02:02
You've got a lifetime's supply of it now if you're only using it on your own instruments.
As far as I'm aware, I don't think this stuff perishes with age as some synthetics and rubberised materials can do as I've got some unused sheets that are over 20 years old and they're still supple, as well as seen it on instruments that were finished over 20 years ago where it's still holding up.
You can get it in much thicker sheets (1mm to 3mm thick) which are ideal for many applications on clarinets and also palm (high D, Eb and F) keys and the large adjusting screw tips on saxes.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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