 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-11 05:05
Hello there!
I'm new to this forum, and new to the oboe world.
I've recently come across this instrument, and the seller has emailed me some photos. Says there is "no brand" engraved on the instrument, but it's a wood oboe and it's quite in good shape.
Anyway, he's shipping it over to me so I can try it before buying it.
I have a couple of questions tho, and I'd love to hear your thoughts on them.
- Open hole oboes are a good way to go?
- I know it's hard to judge only by the photos, but does this look like any particular model from any brand out there or could this be just a regular no brand chinese instrument?
Many thanks!
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Author: oboe-owl
Date: 2013-03-11 20:09
I'm afraid I have no idea what model/brand it is, but it has a lot of keywork on it which suggests that it's quite a high level instrument. It's certainly not aimed at beginners, but I think it's often better to buy a second hand intermediate/pro model than a new student model.
Regarding open holes, I found them hard to get used to when I first got an instrument with them, but if you're starting on them, I suppose they'll be good for making sure your fingers are really in the right places. It may be a little harder, but I don't think it will be a big obstacle for you. I'm not a teacher, though, so I'd wait for someone else's opinion on this.
One thing to watch: to me, it looks like the bottom B and B flat keys might have been bent. It would be worth getting an experienced player/repairer to take a look, I expect, especially if you find those notes don't work easily compared to the rest of the instrument.
Best of luck! I hope you enjoy playing it.
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Author: wkleung
Date: 2013-03-11 21:45
This looks like an East German oboe, or a copy of such. It can definitely be a no-brand Chinese oboe. I started on a Chinese oboe (branded) that looked exactly like this. Please note this has full-automatic octaves, and may not be what a beginner would like to learn on (in case you want to graduate to a better instrument later, which will likely be semi-automatic octaves). Open holes are no problem if you have correct hand/finger positions. The tone tends to be a bit brighter than covered-hole oboes.
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-12 12:59
hey oboe owl, thanks for the insight!! very helpful indeed! i'm expected to receive the oboe anytime this week. i haven't actually bought the instrument yet, since i'm buying it from a guy i know, he told me it would be ok for me to try out the instrument first and see what it feels like.
he did mention it might need some checking up in a repair shop just in case as he is not an expert on oboes, but apparently he played a couple of scales and it plays fine.
as far as the key being bent, i'll check it out and let you know if the notes are harder to play or not.
thanks for now, and will keep you posted.
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-12 13:01
hey wkleung,
thanks for your message!
when you say that a beginner might not want to learn on this instrument, is this because of the more advanced keywork?
as far as covering the tone holes on the instrument, i've played clarinet and bass clarinet for quite a bit and i imagine i should be ok?
thanks once again!
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-12 15:41
I've also been looking at a rudall carte & co oboe, any thoughts on this instrument? thanks!
http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-459666668-oboe-rudall-carte-co-ltd-london-romilly-model-a-n469107-_JM
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-03-12 16:18
http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-459666668-oboe-rudall-carte-co-ltd-london-romilly-model-a-n469107-_JM
That's a very basic thumbplate system oboe - exactly the same instrument as a B&H Regent. They're not particularly good instruments and best avoided. I began playing on one of these and it was hard work as the low notes were uncontrollable due to the bore design (or lack of).
You're much better with a conservatoire system oboe (built to low Bb) if you're in Brazil as that's the standard system for the Americas and most of the world - thumbplate (and dual) system oboes are mostly played in the UK and don't have much of a following elsewhere.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-12 17:24
Hey Chris!
Thanks for that! Very clarifying sir!
It's all a bit overwhelming but hopefully I'll get there!
Thanks once again for the advice.
x
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Author: wkleung
Date: 2013-03-12 17:25
The open hole oboe you are trying has automatic octaves, while most oboes have semi-automatic octaves. It is like learning to drive on a car with automatic transmission - you will have problems driving a manual transmission car later. I started on an oboe just like the one you showed, and even today I have trouble playing semi-automatic octave oboes. So be aware.
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Author: wkleung
Date: 2013-03-12 17:27
You should be ok covering the holes. If there is a problem, that means the hand position is very wrong. I never had problem covering the open holes when I started, but I know a few people who had problems.
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-12 18:25
hey wkelung,
thanks for your advice. i understand. i guess in a way, the car example you used makes a lot of sense. it might be harder to learn how to drive on a manual transmission car but later on it's easier to adapt to an automatic than the other way around, but i guess does this mean, for example, that if i start with this automatic octave one later on if i decide to upgrade or get a different instrument i'd be easier to stay with automatic instruments? does it necessarily mean that an automatic instrument is for "professionals" or is that just a preference or varies according to the style of music you're playing?
thanks!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-03-12 20:45
Fully automatic oboes are some of the most expensive to buy new due to the complex 8ve mechanism and they may have to be built to special order from French makers.
They're mainly found in Germany and East Europe, although more and more Germans are going over to semi-automatic oboes as they give more choices as you can't do certain harmonics on oboes with fully auto 8ves.
The auto 8ve mechanism isn't the easiest thing to keep in regulation, especially on lower quality instruments, so it can cause problems if it develops a fault and you don't know how to regulate it.
Your best bet is to look for a conservatoire system oboe with semi-auto 8ves as these are the most popular. If you're looking for used oboes, then plastic bodied ones will be better than wooden ones as they're far less likely to crack (although the middle tenon is a notorious weak spot on plastic oboes).
Several reputable makes of plastic bodied oboes to look out for are: Selmer USA (Bundy/Buescher/Signet), Linton, Armstrong, Jupiter, Fox/Renard - if you do find a plastic Howarth or Loree, then they will definitely be worth getting.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: wkleung
Date: 2013-03-12 21:39
Chris already answered it very well. If you start on an automatic octave oboe you may be forced to stay on that system, or else you will have to learn to add the 2nd octave key for high A to high C. Also some fingerings are not possible on the automatic octave oboe (notably the harmonics for high A to high C). I think you will be better served starting on a semi-automatic octave conservatoire instrument, instead of this East German oboe (or cheap Chinese oboe). I wish I knew when I started!
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-13 03:16
Hey guys, thanks so much for all your help.
So, I sent the guy an email asking a bit more about the oboe, and he mentioned it does have some leaks and might need some servicing, although it is in "playing condition".
I also asked if there is any serial number engraved on the instrument and he said both upper and lower joint have the serial number : 5950 engraved on them.
Any clues on the serial number? What brand name could it be? East german? Or are we still talking chinese made?
Thanks!
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-15 05:03
I got the oboe today, here are a few more photos if that's ok. also, i realized that once trying to align the bridge keys if you align one side the other side is a bit off and the other way around...
it doesn't feel like a cheap instrument, but i'm taking it to a shop tomorrow to have it looked by an oboe player that works there and will see what he has to say about this instrument.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2013-03-15 06:42
Is that a strange tenon cap in pic 2, or has the tenon socket separated from the body?
That is quite a serious repair.
J.
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Author: brunopietoso
Date: 2013-03-15 15:06
I actually took it to the shop today and i was told it would be in need of a complete overhaul, realignment of some keys, some are stuck, which means I'm sending the instrument back to the seller. haven't paid anything for it, so no worries there; this was the first time I actually had an opportunity to see the oboe upclose, play it, and now I'm really wanting to go after an instrument that plays well and won't give me any headaches like this one did!
thanks anyway for all your help and will keep you posted as I keep digging deeper into the oboe world! :D
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Author: Vintonius
Date: 2013-03-24 19:24
It seems like an oboe which made in CHINA between late 70s to early 90s.
The metal is way too soft, You'll spend most of Your time in adjusting it, however the adjusting screw get rusty very easy.
This Oboe is Automatic Octave System which is good for Saxophonists who want to double on the Oboe. For the Oboe World, Semi-Auto is Prefered. Some of the Overtones cannot be Played with Full Auto Octave System.
Vintonius PRIMUS
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