 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: bkiernan
Date: 2012-11-16 23:49
I'm recently starting to play again, and initially came on this blog to find sources for purchasing reeds (have found many!).
I used to make my reeds (long ago!) and may try again, but one thing I have seen in the posts re: making reeds is "measuring". I was never taught to measure anything! Just slapped the reed onto the staple, wrapped it and scraped away! My instruction was more about how to scrape the reed... I usually had decent results!
So, how important is it to measure where you are placing the cane onto the staple and the measurements of the reed itself?
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Author: Bryanwalker
Date: 2012-11-17 09:46
I fully concur with Craig's recommendation for Mr. Weber's reed manual.
However, I recently bought a new reed making "book" that I find to be fantastic. It was written and published by Dr. Nancy Ambrose King and it is an "e-book" that is only available on the iPad. The book, which can be ordered through iTunes, features step-by-step reed making information, high quality color photos as well as videos featuring Dr. King explaining and demonstrating various steps.
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Author: DrewSorensenMusic
Date: 2012-11-17 15:04
I'm still learning to make good reeds, but:
I'm pretty sure the general philosophy is tying the cane on the staple as far out as possible without the reed leaking. Tie on length will depend on the cane shape and staple diameter.
For example, with a Mack/Pfeiffer shape, my tie on length was 72mm. Now, with a Joshua +2, it's around 74mm. I also got the cane from different suppliers, so it may be possible they were shaped differently.
I think the reason is to create as smooth a taper from the end of the reed, through the staple, to the end of the instrument.
Drew S.
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Author: huboboe
Date: 2012-11-17 22:15
You're right, Drew about the length of the final tie being a function of the shape because, as you say, there needs to be just enough cane to wrap around the top of the staple you are using. That width point on the shape varies along the length of different shapes.
If you wrap too long, of course, the reed will leak because there's not enough cane to close on the sides. If you wrap too short there will be too much cane and although the sides will close, when you pull the wrapping tight it will spring the sides open higher up the reed, above the throat. So finding the place where the sides close one turn before the end of the tube is the ideal spot.
The classic generic measurements of a 70mm long reed with a 4mm tip and 13-15mm back varies a lot between practitioners of the art but gives a rough estimate of ballpark numbers.
I suspect bkiernan is referring, however, to the thickness measurements made with a dial indicator. I found over a long period that all of my best reeds fell very closely into a similar set of measurements. By coincidence - or perhaps a reflection of reality - Martin Schuring has arrived at the same set of measurements and they can be found, along with an excellent discussion and drawings on his website: http://www.public.asu.edu/~schuring/main.html.
If you can craft a reed to these measurements it will work and you can then play with the minutiae until is suites your taste. I've found a dial indicator to be indispensable to reed making. It let's me sort out why the reed isn't doing what I want much faster than the cut/try/clip, cut/try/clip approach.
Good luck with your return to the game. Music is the best and most fun team sport I know!
Robert Hubbard
WestwindDoubleReed.com
1-888-579-6020
bob@westwinddoublereed.com
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Author: DrewSorensenMusic
Date: 2012-11-17 23:51
Ahhhhh,
I now understand the question. And, besides from me looking like a noob, I'm still glad I posted, as I think I just learnt something new. Will test and find out later.
Drew S.
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Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2012-11-19 19:52
Y'all will likely laugh at my Simplicity, but my excellent teacher taught me to tie the blank 'about halfway' down the metal side of the staple, i.e. with about the same space below the end of the cane as between where the cane starts and the staple ends.
I now measure profusively, but I still get the best results in following the above simple advice. It seems to provide a 'correct' (for me) angling/tapering of the cane between the staple's end and the top of the tip. I hardly have problems with reeds being either too open or too closed.
GoodWinds
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Author: huboboe
Date: 2012-11-20 00:07
OK, Mary. If that works, keep doing it.
I suggest, though, that a narrower shape tied the same way won't close, and a wider shape tied the same way will close too soon and spring open the sides above the throat. You have a fortuitous combination of shape and staple. But what happens if the cork is shorter on your next batch of staples?
I'm not trying to pick on you, but want to point out that the geometry of the shape and the staple are independent of the location of the cork on the staple.
Are we still friends?
Robert Hubbard
WestwindDoubleReed.com
1-888-579-6020
bob@westwinddoublereed.com
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Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2012-11-21 00:51
Absolutely!
As I said, Robert, I DO measure profusively nowadays, but somehow manage to have success much of the time. And if I end up with a different shape or gouge (being one of those lazy people who orders shaped cane), I do alter the tie a wee bit if need be.
GoodWinds
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