 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2011-03-28 12:48
Any recommendations for replacement bumper corks?
I finally narrowed down a really horrible "bug" in my oboe to a nasty combination of two things.
My oboe would - occasionally - insert a tiny blip into a transition from A-B, in either register. Almost as if the RH middle-finger key was "lazy" in rising. Try playing the opening phrase of the Beethoven Violin Concerto while worrying about that....
Was the bed-place sticky? Cleaned it, cleaned the pad. Nope.
I cleaned out the main top-joint assembly, re-oiled and re-assembled. Nope.
I cleaned out and re-oiled the linkage from G# for the Bb-B trill - perhaps that lever was preventing the B key from rising? Nope.
Perhaps the plastic-covered appendage to the B key (for the above-mentioned G# linkage) was sticky? Nope.
What else to check? Is the spring too weak? YES - part of the problem - but the metal seems weak and won't hold a stronger springing. Someday - soon - I must replace this spring. But this can't be the whole problem. WHAT ELSE?
Finally, I found it - a sticky bumper cork on the A-B connection on the main assembly. Probably caught a droplet of oil a while back. I scraped it off entirely and re-adjusted, and the problem has gone. Instead, I have a clicky key.
What can I use to replace the bumper cork? How do I stick it down?
J.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-03-28 13:09
First off, don't use cork as it's useless under adjusting screws.
Instead, use either thin (0.2-0.4mm) rubberised cork (Rubco or tech-cork wich is gasket cork) or leather from a sax pad and glue it on with whatever type of glue shoe repairers use to glue rubber soles on with.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2011-03-28 14:30
You mean contact-adhesive, I think. At least, that is how I know it.
Glad to know that I'm not the only one who thinks that cork does a lousy job here. I think I'll pop down to my local auto-repair shop and see if they have a sheet of gasket cork. One piece will probably last me a lifetime.
I'm still waiting for you to invent and market nylon-tipped torx-keyed adjustment screws, Chris ..
J.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-03-28 17:59
You're best with slotted adjusting screws as you and everyone else are more likely to have a flat blade screwdriver when you need one in an emergency than a set of Torx drivers. And repairers won't be too happy having to buy a Torx driver set to add to their already vast collection of screwdrivers.
Buffet Prestige bass clarinets used Allen head adjusting screws in the late '90s, but they saw sense and went back to slotted ones in 2000.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2011-03-29 08:54
I have had the slotted screw heads on my instruments mangled by repair men with poor tools. I also have one screw that was solid, immovable and useless from the day I received the instrument (the height adjuster on the 3rd octave key - I resolved the issue by removing the assembly and bending the keywork).
a small torx or hexagonal key will stay in the hole, let you test-play-adjust to a very fine degree, and you just keep it in the case with your instrument. But you're the expert, not me.
J.
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Author: Oboe Craig
Date: 2011-03-29 22:14
One advantage I find with slotted screws is the visual feedback. Its easy to follow the screw advance or retreat in aprox. single second increments.
The cement I use is Weldwood Contact Cement. It sets up firmly in just a couple minutes.
Need to try the gasket material though. Still using cork just because I have it on hand.
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Author: huboboe
Date: 2011-03-31 01:34
I had a similar problem, but the cause was that the arm from the G# on the A# - B trill mechanism had a notch worn in it that held the A key down momentarily.
I also use contact cement. I don't use cork under screws but find self-adhesive thin teflon sheet excellent where there is no sideways component to shift it on the key. I'm going to try the gasket material.
Another nice thing about contact cement is you can paint a thin layer of it onto sheet cork (or sax pad leather), dry it and paint a second coat. After it is dry - for months even - you can stick a piece of it to a key by warming the key and holding it in place for a moment. Then trim the excess from the edges of the key with a razor blade.
Robert Hubbard
WestwindDoubleReed.com
1-888-579-6020
bob@westwinddoublereed.com
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-04-01 15:23
Tech cork (rubco/gummi-kork/etc.) is available here in various thicknesses - I'd recommend 0.3 or 0.4mm for oboes: http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/cork-200.html
No good for tenon corks - you're best using natural cork for tenons over anything else on the market.
When using it on sliding linkages (eg. the Ab-Bb linkage arm), coat it with graphite from a soft pencil once it's glued in place, or stick a piece of thin self-adhesive teflon sheet onto it to make it slide better.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2011-04-01 16:04)
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