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Re: To swedge or not to swedge...

Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-08-26 18:07

Alcohol shouldn't harm the plastic - use denatured alcohol (methylated spirits or isopropyl), but definitely don't use solvents as they will dissolve plastic.

Silver polish will actually shine up and remove small scratches and light scuff marks from the plastic.

Ok, pad ventings (starting from the top joint):

8ve keys - 1.5mm max.
Trill keys - 1.5mm max.
LH1 - barely opening but with some slight movement
LH2 - 2mm
LH3 - 2mm (this one will determine the venting of the Bb and C pads)
G# - as far as it will open and stop against the adjusting screw from RH1.

Bottom joint:
RH1 - enough to fully open the Bb and C keys, but with a small amount of safety play either side of it - you should feel a tiny bit of double action before it operates the con bar on the top joint, and also a small gap between the end of the con bar and the linkage from the Bb key and also a gap between the end of the con bar and the joint surface once RH1 is fully closed.
RH2 - 2mm
RH3 - 2mm
Low C - 2.8-3mm
Low B - 2.8-3mm
The Eb pad cup should open so the adjusting screw makes contact with the linkage from the low C key.
The low C key also lowers RH2 so it almost closes, but still has some movement left in it (almost like the LH1 fingerplate) - this is adjusted with the adjusting screw on the C key touchpiece arm.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2010-08-26 22:20)

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