Author: asartain
Date: 2010-08-26 16:52
Thanks very much. This raises a few more questions. I know I've already asked a couple, but will ask again to clarify. I was going through the post holes with alcohol on a pipe cleaner and it was dripping pretty good on the plastic. Do you think this might hurt it and if I'm that worried about it, do you think maybe I should just try a couple of spots to test it out on the back of the oboe, where it won't be so noticeable? Also, when I start with the silver polish, should I be worried about it getting on the plastic? Maybe test a spot with it too, just to be sure. I think maybe the toothbrush was scratching it a bit, so will have to find something softer. It's not horribly noticeable but I do notice it.
I think the main thing when I started on this oboe was that some of the pads were already starting to deteriorate and I didn't realize it and I don't think it was in the best adjustment, so correcting those problems should bring it back up to par.
Oh, and I'm putting new corks at least on the bottom joint. I need to know, how much space should there be between a key and a tonehole? I was going to try to get it rather close, but now I understand that this affects tuning, so would I just start with really thick corks and file until tuning is right? Sorry, kind of a newb.
Honestly, I'm not too confident about swedging or tonehole re-facing. Also, I have no swedging pliers. I guess this is what I consider getting into scary territory. I don't have it here with me to look at, but I believe the spacing is as you said, with mostly the longer barrels having that amount of play including some with pads towards the bottom of the horn, but it's probably okay since they are longer as well. Again I'll say, if you take the barrel on these longer posts, and push them up against the other end, there is at least a mm. A couple of the tone holes look maybe a little scratchy on the surface, but nothing deep. Anyway, how does a tone hole get scratched in the first place? It's kind of hidden. If you think it's necessary, how in the world do I make the tool?
Oh,and it will also need adjustment screws. When I took it apart a couple of them wouldn't hardly turn and I barely got them out. And I'm scared to admit this, but I tried screws from a Fox oboe and I probably screwed up the threads a bit. I will have to wait till I get to that point and order screws to see just how bad I suppose. I might end up having to cut new threads. Honestly, I'm kind of hoping that just turning the appropriate screw through will straighten them out. Again, double oops.
Sorry to be a bother, but I am a worrywart. Anyway, thanks bundles for your kind help.
And about the oil, engine oil is really okay? I think what I have is about that consistency. What I already have is Ultimax key oil in medium viscosity, which it said on the website was actually thicker than most.
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