The Oboe BBoard
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Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2010-07-09 16:03
Baroque repertoire RULES!!!!
For sure, the actual equipment required is as follows:
(1) Gouging machine : around $1500 USD
(2) Pre-gouger : from 100-500$ : cheap is good enough for me
(3) cane splitter (3-way): I use an arrow head from a hunting goods store
(4) micrometer based on a comparator: many models (be sure to ask for metric!)
(5) radius gage
=> and a trustworthy supplier of "tube" cane. In the past, I had been pleasantly surprized with California Cane (obtained from Brian Charles Double Reed Supply). With the French, quality really depends on the vendor.
Yes, (2) is important. Sometimes I split my cane in 2 with a knife, so the pre-gouger is crucial to preparing the cane for the gouging-machine.
The only piece that's of any concern is (1). I don't know the available machies at all, you might want to contact Cooper directly at his shop - some of his replies to my questions were really useful. One thing you need to consider is the ease/difficulty in adjusting the monster - they are a real headache! Forrest's shows many models. I'm hoping that #H-32 is as good as it looks: it looks like a one-piece unit with the adjustment machined-in. Otherwise, they all follow the same principle of screws and bolts to change the relative orientation between the bed and the blade-plane on all 3 axes.
Cooper mentioned single and double radii (radiusses?) machines - I don't know anything in this respect. I reshape the blade myself, but I really discourage others from doing it: in my case, its because my machine is so old and I've tweaked it so much that no one else will touch it!
If you can get a used (1), you might be able to fix-it up or find someone willing. You can send out e-mails to stores and see if they can help you with that.
(4) comes in 3 models: (a) with 2 rods touching tip and another (b) with a sideways sliver on which you put your finished reed. I don't use (b) at all because I just don't believe that measuring finished reeds can construct a reusable model..... but many will disagree with me. (a), in my opinion, is more useful for gouging, but others might explain if (b) can be used too.
I built by own base for (4) which means I paid 50$ for the dial back when comparators were around 150$. BUT, sensitive task to ensure precision: its all about trigonometry!
Instead of (5), I just use my calipper (which I find very handy for tying too). The important thing about selecting cane before gouging is flatness (more than radius) which you test on a table.
I like the service from Roseau Chantant, but I don't see any problem with Forrest's or RDG or oboe-shop.de. Of course, anything made by Kunibert Michel (Germany) is great.
http://www.oboe-shop.de/catalog/index.php?cPath=52_67&osCsid=7534c9600775b543b46ec2b5976d5fdb
http://www.forrestsmusic.com/gougers.htm
http://www.le-roseau.ca/products_reed_en.php?secID=31
Best of luck!
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
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hautbois francais |
2010-07-09 08:05 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-07-09 16:03 |
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johnt |
2010-07-09 16:45 |
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cjwright |
2010-07-09 22:21 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-07-10 01:35 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-07-10 02:38 |
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cjwright |
2010-07-10 03:40 |
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mjfoboe |
2010-07-10 15:29 |
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cjwright |
2010-07-10 16:43 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-07-10 03:04 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-07-10 11:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-07-10 04:01 |
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cjwright |
2010-07-10 04:02 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-07-10 04:21 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-07-10 12:38 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-07-10 14:35 |
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