 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: mbam
Date: 2008-01-05 08:27
Hi,
I'm new to your board, so to introduce myself, I'm an amateur player that took 15 years off after playing with a teacher for about 6 years. Unfortunately I only learned playing technique, and never how to make reeds or set screw adjustments. At the time I was young and oblivious, but now that I can read so many things about oboe technique and teaching, I really can't believe that in all those years no one, particularly my teacher, ever suggested that one ought to learn anything other than playing! So that is a mystery, and here I am today with no reed making or adjustment skills!
I've got an intermediate modified conservatory instrument that plays pretty well, and I just want to be able to do routine maintenance and basic adjustments. I have Sawicki's book, and I'm pretty comfortable with it except for one thing. My oboe has two screws side by side on the F-res keywork. I think it's the one Sawicki calls #12, and one extra one just above it. There is a rocker that the extra screw rests on, and the upper end of the rocker has a screw which seems to be Sawicki's screw #11.
Does anyone have any suggestions on the extra screw?
Many thanks,
Mary
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Author: sylvangale
Date: 2008-01-05 09:31
If you press down on the open key below the F-res, notice were a key rises to meet the F res. That screw is #11.
The screw next to it is just extra adjustment screw. You would make adjustment for #12 with both the #12 screw and the extra screw, you can screw the extra screw in more so you just have to adjust the #12 or balance them both out.
♫ Stephen K.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-01-05 09:33
I'm assuming it's possibly a Selmer USA oboe as these have two adjusting screws on the fork F vent. The lower of the screws (the one nearest the hinge tube) is the more important of the two as it regulates the closure of the F vent with the mid fingerplate.
The end screw is only doing the job a piece of silencing material does and offers more adjustment than just having the one adjustment from RH fingerplate 3 (thoug there are ways around this without needing the extra adjusting screw), and makes sure there's no metal to metal contact between the end of the F vent and the lower end of the rocker.
The upper end of the rocker is held down by the adjusting screw connected to RH 3 fingerplate which controls the venting of that key in relation to the mid fingerplate, so if there's some double action between RH 2 and the F# vent (the small pad between RH 1 and 2), then back off the adjusting screw to open up RH 3.
Likewise if there's double action between RH 3 and the F# vent, tighten the screw to remove the double action (which will lower RH 3). If you find there's still not enough opening on RH 3 with the screw backed off as far as it'll go without being noisy, then undo the end screw on the F vent to get more opening.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: mbam
Date: 2008-01-06 05:35
Thank you both for your responses. This is exactly the info I was looking for. And I do have a Selmer. It is a 121 model.
I have some key corks that are worn out mainly on the bridges and under the key arm that connects LH2 to the G# mechanism. I am going to tackle this repair myself after I get a little more comfortable with setting the adjustments, so I'll be back if (or when!) I get everything too far out of whack!
Thanks very much!
Mary
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