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Re: Worth it?

Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-03-14 10:30

Tom H wrote:

"I bought a used Yamaha student one for $100 Canadian years ago. It lasted about 10 years of practicing. It still plays, but needs work--not worth it to repair for $300."

YES IT IS! Tell me how much a brand new Yamaha would cost you. Also consider an overhauled one SHOULD be finished to a much higher standard than a factory finished one if done by a competent repairer and not limited to a few hours of bench time.

I'd personally rather buy a used clarinet that's been rebuilt than buy a factory fresh one as many factory finished instruments of all levels only just pass the minimum quality control criteria before leaving the factory.

I have a '70s YCL-24 which I've used for outdoor playing and went as far as not just fully overhauling it with mostly cork pads, but also adding a LH Ab/Eb lever and LH forked Eb/Bb mechanism even though it's an entry level plastic clarinet so I can use those fingerings as I use on my old Selmers. Old Yamahas are incredibly well built clarinets and put many brand new pro level instruments made today to shame with their build quality.

"Can't complain about the Yamaha at all--even used it occasionally in public with amateur jazz groups in Florida. $100 for 10 years, that's $10 a year."

That may have been the purchase price, but it's no reflection on the value of the instrument. Just because it cost you $100 doesn't mean it's only worth $100. If you were to insure it, then you'd insure it for what a new one is worth and not what you may have paid for it.

"For some reason (other than the missing pad), I'd stay away from the wooden B&H."

Why? It's only missing a pad. Pads and corks are consumables and can be replaced and on the whole, B&H produced some decent instruments in their time as well as some dogs - their clarinets were mostly the decent ones.

It would also be interesting to know what model B&H it is - the lower order ones from the '50s (Regent and "77" with serial numbers in the 100000s) had nickel plated die cast "mazak" (zinc alloy) keys which were very soft and can't be repaired easily if they break, whereas most have drop forged nickel silver keywork, either nickel or silver plated depending on the level.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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