Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2016-11-26 05:28
BGBG wrote:
> I just read a reference that said that the vamp area of the
> reed must be the length and width of the opening in the
> mouthpiece so it can seal and vibrate properly.
Well, yes, generally, unless something different works as well or better. For example, the Legere Euros are wider than other clarinet reeds (Legeres or cane) and the taper is shorter than the curve on most mouthpieces. But somehow they work better IMO than any of the earlier models with more conventionally sized vamps.
> except for a few reeds, most of the group I am
> working on must have the bark shaved down to as much as 5-6 mm
> from the original boundary.
Well, you said you clipped 6 mm off the tips, so you'd probably have to move the whole vamp down the reed 6 mm to restore the proportions of the design. You might get away with less. You'd have to find out by trial and error. You play reeds, not rules.
> Since I do not know what to use and
> dont think I have equipment except maybe a Dremel tool sanding
> wheel,
If you're VERY careful with the Dremel, it might do using very light pressure on the tool. Or a file. Most players I know who do any adjusting at the bark end of the vamp use either a knife (we've already covered that) or a flat file.
> I need 32 mm tip to bark to match MP opening.
But maybe *not* to get the reed to play. You aren't, you said earlier, trying to restore the reeds to greatness. If you want really good reeds to play on, you'd be far better off (we've already covered this, too) chucking the ones you clipped and using fresh, new reeds that you shouldn't clip 6 mm shorter.
If you're doing this as a learning process, use any hand tool that does the job of removing the bark without forming a divot and then smoothing the taper with whatever you normally use to scrape the vamp - rush, sandpaper,. ATG, razor blade, etc.
Karl
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