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Re: DIY crack repair and CA glue-use tips

Author: clarnibass
Date: 2010-04-26 04:35

>> Of course the rods crosses the crack quite deep within the timber, quite close to the bore, so it is arguable as to just how much the pins stabilise the splits, which are actually typically at their worst close to the OUTER surface. <<

I agree. But maybe the main purpose of pins is to try to prevent the crack from growing into the bore rather than help against the outer edge.

>> Where do you put the CA stage in the repair/restoration process? <<

Before oiling and prerably clean/degrease the crack before. Why would the wood moving after oiling be a problem, considering the wood will move at least as much, probably much more, when playing.

>> I agree with the experts who have weighed in, that 'pinning' is seldom, if ever, nessesary with modern CA glue techniques. It also makes a fairly ugly repair, what with filling the entry holes, etc. <<

It is possible to make those entry holes almost and sometimes completely invisible. Sometimes you'll get a tiny white glue "vain" when sanded but usually not and the surface is the same. I've filled holes that were impossible to find. I later changed my opinion and now consider it better to leave signs to where the pins are.

>> Try to avoid having an 'exit hole' if you can, makes the final job a little prettier! <<

I prefer to have through holes, not blind holes. A bit more work to fill double the holes but I prefer the advantages of having a through hole.

>> The pins are 'notched with a file or grinder at the length you want it to break off at. If you notch too deep you risk it braking off while threading it into your slightly undersized pre-drilled hole. <<

This can be a real problem. It's too easy for the notch to be a tiny bit too small or big. Too small and it won't break there. Too big is the main problem, you can get half stuck. Since the more threads are in the more force it has, it is likely to break when too little is left to easily grip and screw it back out. So I don't bother with a notch and instead grind the extra bit of the rod off with micromotor.

Though I'm really skeptical about the real benefits of pinning. Pinning is done with glue too, so no way for a repairer to know whether it is actually the glue that does the work. The only way is to pin without any glue and see what happens. I've seen pinning like this and the crack always re-opened when I played the clarinet, just less than it did before the pinning.

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