 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: beethovenssixth
Date: 2021-03-10 22:56
I got a abs clarinet with a unthreaded post on the E/B hole, and it got loose so the pad can't close the tone hole properly (the tension of the spring keeps rotating the post to the point where it looses all the tension over the pad, which keeps the tone hole closed because the spring has no force to return the pad to it's initial point). How can i repair that? Superglue? I just want the post to be immovable so the spring can work the way it has to be.
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2021-03-11 00:24
I usually just put some epoxy in the hole and press it in. Just wipe off any excess that comes out the side. I wouldn’t use superglue as it will be difficult to remove excess. If it’s a tight fit you can also drill a little hole to let air out of the hole so that there are no voids in the glue, although I’m my experiece this is not always necessary.
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-03-11 21:50
You can also fit or have someone fit a locking screw to prevent the pillar turning - a thumbrest screw will be ideal for this. Drill a hole by the pillar base to take the screw thread (probably around 1.6mm or thereabouts depending on the size of the screw thread), then use a larger diameter cutter (the same diameter as the screw head) to cut a notch out of the pillar base so it resembles a partial eclipse. Then screw in the thumbrest/wood screw and that will lock the pillar in place.
If that's a bit too involved, another thing is to remove the pillar and make a paper washer or shim that fits under the pillar base so it won't turn beyond the point where it lines up with the opposing pillar. The shim will probably be 5mm outer diameter with a 3mm-3.5mm hole. You can add more than one shim or use different thickness paper or card to get the desired results. Yamaha suggested using a shim made from abrasive paper with the abrasive side down so it bites into the wood.
Either that, or put a small quantity of powdered pumice in the screw hole and refit the pillar and that will prevent it being screwed in too far and beyond the point of rotation where you need it to be. That can easily be added to or removed.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2021-03-12 07:43
Can you remove the post? It's best if you can, and then use epoxy. Could depend on the exact shape of the bottom of the post and whether it's a friction fit or if the clarinet was molded over it. It might take some force to remove but there's a fine line between removing it and breaking the plastic to remove it. The former has no issues, the latter is also sometimes the best option actually, it depends.
It's unlikely to be a smooth friction fit, but if it is, then as jdbassplayer wrote it's best to have a way for the air to escape. Usually best is a tiny channel from the bottom to under the top base.
>> a paper washer or shim that fits under the pillar base so it won't turn beyond the point where it lines up with the opposing pillar. <<
>> will prevent it being screwed in too far and beyond the point of rotation where you need it to be <<
Those methods only really work well for threaded posts.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-03-13 00:53
I'm not sure I understand how an 'unthreaded post' can rotate if it's anchored by one or two wood screws which most unthreaded pillars on most clarinets are like.
Unless it's a splined fitting and ultrasonically fitted into the joint as seen on some plastic clarinets.
If that's the case, then pull it straight out, epoxy it back in and leave it overnight before replacing the keywork.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2021-03-13 09:18
It sounds like it's a plastic clarinet (I assume that's what he meant by abs, usually spelled ABS).
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Author: Matt74
Date: 2021-03-13 12:48
I just wanted to add: If you glue a post in be careful that it goes in all the way and stays there, and is oriented correctly. It can be hard to clamp them sometimes. If the post isn't in all the way in when it dries you can have problems with key alignment or pad sealing. Hint: Do NOT use Gorilla Glue because it expands and forces the post out while it cures.
- Matthew Simington
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2021-03-13 19:38
>> If you glue a post in be careful that it goes in all the way and stays there, and is oriented correctly. It can be hard to clamp them sometimes. If the post isn't in all the way in when it dries you can have problems with key alignment or pad sealing. <<
Yes, especially someone doing it for the first time should probably use a slow setting glue, and regardless it's best to let it dry with the key mounted on. Check occasionally, not only because of that, but mainly since there is a good state of the glue that is easiest to remove any extra (peel nicely off, as opposed to smear and and be messy if too early, or very hard to remove if too late). Slow setting epoxies are also stronger, usually.
You can also smear a tiny bit of grease outside and on the top of the post base, wherever you don't want the glue to adhere. Just make sure to not get any grease where you do want it.
>> Do NOT use Gorilla Glue because it expands and forces the post out while it cures. <<
That's true for the original Gorilla glue, which is a polyurethane glue, and same for any other polyurethane glue (I haven't found any use for it on woodwinds). Gorilla also makes super glue, epoxy, etc. which would be fine.
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