 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Eina Kari Rajesh
Date: 2014-08-14 17:06
Dear all,
Is it advisable or OK to pass water through the clarinet (joints - ABS Resin body) to wash off the dust that got accumulated in the tone holes and pads. I have no idea what material pads are made out of, but looks a bit spongy and in white colour and seals perfectly.
I could not dust completely with brush. As I am appearing for grade 5 ABRSM this October I just thought of cleaning and oiling the joints. Otherwise the clarinet is in great condition.
Any other suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
BTW the clarinet is YCL250 and practicing with woodwind K9 mouthpiece.
Regards
EKR
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-08-14 17:38
You shouldn't ever submerge a clarinet in water or wash it under a tap while the keys are still in place as that will cause all manner of problems. So you're best removing all the keys if you want to wash the joints, then drying them thoroughly before refitting the keys.
But otherwise if you're not competent or unsure about removing the keys, then this will be done when you take it in for a general service by your repairer who should not only clean the joints and toneholes, but replace any worn or defective key corks, pads and springs as needed, then they'd oil the keywork during assembly and make sure your clarinet is well regulated so it all works properly.
The only thing you as a player should do is make sure the bore is dried after playing, the tenon corks are greased to ease assembly and preserve them and the keywork and joints are kept clean with a soft duster and a paintbrush to remove dust from the hard to reach areas under the keywork.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-08-14 17:48
Just use a Q-tip to push dust out of tone holes and swab the bore clean.
By oiling joints I believe you refer to cork grease in some form or other to keep the tenon corks supple and lubricated. Resin body clarinets need NO special maintenance (one of the perks).
One of the problems caused by left over droplets of standing water on a horn would be promoting the springs to rust. Additionally you don't want to water log the pads.
.............Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Eina Kari Rajesh
Date: 2014-08-14 19:21
Thanks Chris and Paul,
I do swab every 15-20mins of practicing and wipe dry the socket before placing it in the case. I apply cork grease every time I assemble the instrument - once a day.
Sorry, I meant to oil the key's. Where do we need to apply oil exactly, is it on the joint of screw on posts (pillars) or on the key juncture!
It's not possible for me to get cork grease and key oil locally, so I started using white petroleum gelly ( not the cented Vaseline ) and sewing machine oil. Is it OK to apply for better key movements.
Paul, isn't the metal/alloy on clarinet rust proof, or atleast with some coatings to prevent it.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: bmcgar ★2017
Date: 2014-08-15 00:33
Eina,
Invest in the book "Haynes Clarinet Manual" by Stephen Howard.
It'll give you answers to basic clarinet maintenance and repair, and discusses various options for things like key oil, cork grease, swabbing, cleaning, and so forth. Best of all, it's relatively cheap. About $20 from discount websites.
All of my students have them; even the beginners.
B.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-08-15 00:41
The keys themselves are not the issue. As Steve Ocone points out, the rods (and pivots) can rust. But I find the springs to be most vulnerable (flat springs, ie. what you see under the side keys for example, and the needle spings - easiest to see on the shaft of the "E/B" cup at the bottom of the horn.
The best way to oil is to unscrew the individual rod, or pivot; wipe off the existing residue and reapply new oil. I have seen that the Backun clarinets actually have holes in the keywork where you can just apply a drop of oil. But I still like the idea of wiping first because there are microscopic bits of worn metal mixed with the 'old oil' (that is, if there is still some oil present).
The sewing machine oil is ok, but it's pretty thin. My preference is to use "heavy key oil" that can be obtained from "Woodwind Brasswind." The bottle even has a needle applicator that makes it easy to place a single tiny bead of oil exactly were you want it.
..................Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BartHx
Date: 2014-08-15 03:35
WW&BW has key oil. You may also want to check The Doctor's Products for both key oil and plant based cork grease. I don't know what WW&BW has in cork grease, but cork tends to last longer if you avoid petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lubricants can damage the cell walls of the cork resulting in reduced elasticity and/or damage the adhesive that holds the cork in place. The Doctor has a variety of non-petroleum based lubricants.
Disclaimer: My only connection to The Doctor's Products is that I am a satisfied customer.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-08-15 13:15
Lot of good basic concepts in the Ridenour video (never occurred to me that one could strip the fine threads of rods and pivots - I never force anything).
Tom's lubrication is pretty thick. I use oil that is closer to a 30 weight (suggested by William Brannen) and lubricate about once a month. My concern with heavier weight than the 30 weight is that I would find the rods to feel a bit "draggy" (if that's a word), but I bet "Super Lube" is great on the pivots of the ring keys!
...........Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
