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New oboe, some random questions/issues

Author: JohnDill
Date: 2017-04-23 22:51

I am considering upgrading from my old B series Loree to a new instrument. I got a few instruments on trial, a couple of Lorees, a Howarth, a Rigoutat, a Marigaux, and a rosewood Patricola. I've had the chance over the past week to play with all of them and play with them in the ensembles I play in to see how it blends/projects.

I'd be willing to send someone a gift/beer money if they can help me out and save me a trip to the repair shop - there are no oboe specialists around here and I would have to ship it across the country.

The Patricola has been my favorite - but it is not perfect. The oboe came with a lot of adjustment issues that I was able to fix - but there's still a few problems/questions that remain.

One of the biggest issues I still face is that the low D is difficult to play, and the middle D is stuffy. Beginning of Le Tombeau is impossible to play with the low D. The notes below it - the low Db, B and Bb are fine. The Eb plays fine too. And the low E speaks cleanly with the lightest touch. But the second I put down the low D, it does not speak well.

Some potential issues that I noticed - the F# tonehole (key between R1 and R2) is made from a white leather(i think) pad instead of a cork pad. The Eb pad, the low C pad and everything below that are also leather. So maybe that's messing with my adjustment? Do leather pads have more drag on a feeler than a cork pad?

The perforated cork between the 2 parts of the split D ring mechanism is also too thick. The upper ring was clearly much higher than the inner ring. I took a razor blade, cut down the height of the cork and sanded it. The two rings are now flush with each other but the low D issue persists.

Another issue that I haven't figured out is the 3rd octave key. When I play high E + 3rd octave, it jumps to high F. I do realize that the 3rd octave key makes notes slightly sharper, but on the other oboes, it makes it sharper by maybe 3-4 cents but this one is completely different. I'm also aware that the 3rd octave key should open just the tiniest bit but it still does not work. I have tried adjusting it so that it opens to different key heights but the issue persists.

I attached some pictures of the lower joint of the oboe, it has some extra adjusting screws that I'm not used to seeing - like the adjusting screw on the Eb pad. On the side view of the keys, you can see the different cork/leather pads being used.

There's something loose too next to the banana key. I think I saw someone call it a "horseshoe" that keeps the long rod from bending. I circled it in the red on the "Middle joint" picture. It moves side to side on the rod and screwing the post tighter doesn't help. What is the purpose of this key and does it really matter?

Also just a random question, is the hole on the R1 key supposed to be open? It seems to be filled with some kind of material to plug it. On some oboes like the Royal or the XL, it doesn't have the hole there.

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