The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: dibble
Date: 2020-01-18 04:12
Attachment: 83567DB7-174D-46DF-9A80-CC838F9B870C.jpeg (1834k)
Attachment: FDB3EEAC-0096-4F43-B925-9971DC4547AE.jpeg (1970k)
Help guys!!
When I play the clarion register the larger of the two register holes does not close all the way. When the register key is released, the pad seals again.
Please look at the pictures if you can.
I have already made sure the neck was in the optimum position. I’ve already made sure that the spring tension of the key that activates the key that closes the pad onto the hole is strong.
I can’t figure it out 😣
Does anyone have any advice for me? I would appreciate it very much.
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Author: tdufka
Date: 2020-01-18 04:30
Volume 14 issue 2 of "The Clarinet: has an extensive explanation of how to maintain the octave mechanism of the Selmer 33, written by Clark Fobes.
I can't attach a .pdf of the issue here for some reason, but send me an email, and we can try that way.
Post Edited (2020-01-18 04:32)
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2020-01-18 05:06
Start by adding more material to the bridge between the two joints. If that doesn't work increase the travel of the RH3 touchpiece by thinning the key cork.
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: Max S-D
Date: 2020-01-18 06:18
Seconding what jdbassplayer said, I had the same issue for a while when the sliver of cork padding between the two keys kept falling off. When it would happen while I was playing, I'd have to rotate the neck a little closer to the rod so they'd be a bit closer together.
I eventually had to wrap a piece of shrink wrap tubing around the bumper pad on the little arm on the body side of the mechanism that activates the neck register vent. That works pretty well and the little sliver of cork has stayed put for a few years now. Not the prettiest, but nobody's looking there.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2020-01-18 17:45
I'm not sure if it's the same problem I used to have because the cork would get very slightly depressed so i'd put a piece scotch tape around it and it worked perfectly. I always carried a small roll of scotch tape in my case in case the tape fell off.
ESP eddiesclarinet.com
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-01-19 01:33
Also check the linkage from the throat A key (the arm running under the throat A touchpiece) to the speaker mechanism isn't holding the lower vent open. The lower vent should open with the speaker key and throat A key held down together and then close when you release the throat A key (and the mechanism switches over and opens the crook key).
There should be some lost motion before the throat A key makes contact with the linkage arm which in turn links to and actuates the same part of the mechanism connected to the RH3 fingerplate to open the lower vent. If there's no lost motion, check the throat A key hasn't been bent as well as doing all the other checks.
There's a fair bit of chasing your tail setting up automatic mechanisms of any kind to make them work correctly. You have to see how the entire mechanism works with the instrument assembled (crook and both upper and lower joints, minus the bell).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: dibble
Date: 2020-02-05 08:05
Thanks for all of the advice everyone! You all are so generous taking the time to help. The diagram tdufka sent helped me to fix the problem myself and now I know more about my particular horn.
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