 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Dharma
Date: 2011-11-15 22:02
I've been slowly extending my range as a complete novice. I've noticed that I find it much easier to hit notes around the top of the staff when my reed is really quite dry. Once I've been playing for ten minutes or so, I can barely make a squeak above C, and if the reed is very wet, it just closes up.
This happens even if I spend the first ten minutes just pooling in the lower register, so I don't think it's that I'm tired or straining.
So I reckon it's one of three things: I *am* tired/straining and don't realise it; I'm not tired, but am doing something subtlety different I haven't spotted; or perhaps the wet reed is becoming too soft?
If I take the reed off, wipe it on a piece of cotton and put it back on, then I can hit the notes quite easily again for a few minutes until it gets wet again...?
I'm currently using a Rico 1.5.
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A horse is drawn to water, but a pencil must be lead.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2011-11-15 22:23
What you are experiencing is quite common. I think it's a stage that most early players go through. I suspect that you have a combination of too soft a reed and unconsciously biting down on the reed/mouthpiece in an attempt to control the reed. It could possibly be, in part, a mouthpiece problem. Try moving up to a 2, and if the problem persists mention it to your teacher, or to a more experienced player if you have one available to you. If the problem is unchanged, or if it reduces but is still present, then consider trying another mouthpiece. Your local music shop should, if they are any good, allow you to try several. If they don't, find a better music shop.
Tony F.
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2011-11-16 01:36
You are ready to advance! Cool
Go to a #2 reed for about 2 to 3 weeks then a 2 1/2 for a while and work your way up to a 3. Maybe in two to 3 months. Hope this helps.
A 3 and a 3 1/2 stregth reed will surely help you hit that stratosphere, a place in which the neighbors dog start barking!
Seriously, the faster you can get up to around a #3 will make the notes come out much easier, but take your time here. Thats the key. This gives your mouth muscles and your lips time to build up.
When you hit the 2 1/2 mark you may wish to try Vandoren reeds. They cost a big more.
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Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2011-11-16 16:37
You're correct in that a stiffer reed (one that vibrates faster on its own) is necessary to get the clarinet to play its highest notes.
Think of plucking the reed at its tip. It has to vibrate at least an octave higher than the note you're trying to play. (In my experience, plucking a reed like that is sure to break it.)
Bob Phillips
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Author: Dharma
Date: 2011-11-16 17:54
Thanks everyone. Unfortunately, due to wok commitments I missed this weeks lesson, and will miss next weeks, so knowing its worth trying a stiffer reed now will save me a couple of weeks of frustration.
Thanks!
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A horse is drawn to water, but a pencil must be lead.
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2011-11-16 21:28
I find it that I have no need for cane reeds any stiffer that 2.5. With a reed of that resistance (Vandoran Traditional) I can get the full range with ease and with good tone, the only problem is that they don't last very long. I mostly use the Vandoran B45 dot MP.
However more recently I've gone over to the Forestone 4 and 4.5 synthetics. They are excellent in their balance and consistancy.
The odd thing though is , according to the chart that Forestone has put out, this resistance is equal to 3 and 3.5 in the Vandoran Traditional cane reeds. If I try and use cane reeds of that stiffness I find them far too stiff to use and have to weaken them a bit with dutch rush.
I call any cane reed with a number on them higher than 3, 'paddle pop sticks' .
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Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2011-11-16 23:03
I've found that a Forestone 4.5 or 5 is roughly the equivalent of a Vandoren V12 #3-1/2
Bob Phillips
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Author: William
Date: 2011-11-17 18:19
If you continue to use cane reeds, I would recommend that you thoroughly moisten the reed before you start to play. The reed will change less as it warms up and will last longer. FWIW, I have given up cane reeds and am using Forestones which are absolutely consistant and do not require moistening, nor curing, balancing or any of the usual cane hassles. F4.5s are the strength I use on soprano clarinet, F2 on alto sax and F2.5 on tenor. The reeds are always ready to play, last indefinately and do not go soft half way through the gig.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2011-11-17 22:34
Barry Vincent wrote:
> I find it that I have no need for cane reeds any stiffer that
> 2.5. With a reed of that resistance (Vandoran Traditional) I
> can get the full range with ease and with good tone...
> I mostly use the Vandoran B45 dot MP.
>
> I call any cane reed with a number on them higher than 3,
> 'paddle pop sticks' .
I might also if I played on a B45 dot. But many of us play on facings at the other end of the spectrum, even by Vandoren's standards, and your 'paddle pop sticks' are our meat and potatoes. The strength needed for good results is *very* dependent on the mouthpiece's resistance, which is largely determined by its facing. Your 1.195 mm tip opening and the 1.005 mm tip of an M13 aren't likely to be happy with the same reeds.
I don't remember reading what mouthpiece Dharma uses with those 1.5 Ricos.
Karl
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Author: Dharma
Date: 2011-11-17 22:47
That'll be because I neglected to mention it...
I play on a Yamaha 5C (1.10mm opening, 19mm lay?). When I bought my clarinet, which is a second hand B12, I didn't fancy a used mouthpiece, and the guy in the store recommended the 5C. My teacher hasn't asked what mouthpiece I'm using, but probably clocked it in my lesson. The fact he didn't say it was inappropriate made me feel it's probably good for an adult beginner?
I've managed to improve my "hit rate" on a few of the notes towards my limit a little bit the last day or two. I think that was due to focussing on my embouchure and avoiding the biting down too much that was mentioned.
I'm expecting delivery of a couple of 2.0 reeds tomorrow, so we'll see if it helps, or if I just need to work harder (I'm hoping a bit of both is the answer!).
Thanks all for the help and suggestions!
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A horse is drawn to water, but a pencil must be lead.
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2011-11-18 02:26
KDK, wrote (Your 1.195 mm tip opening and the 1.005 mm tip of an M13 aren't likely to be happy with the same reeds.)
That is correct KDK. I do have a M13 Vandoran MP and find that I can use the Forestone #5 on it easily and I assume that the Vandoran 3.5 or even 4 would be Ok to use. It's just that I get such a good tone and range out of the B45 dot MP with a 2.5 Vandoran or #4 forestone that I'm reluctant to play about on any other set up at the moment.
Just speaking for myself, another thing that got me onto another level of playing was adopting the double embouchure (mainly to protect my dentures) but also to get away from the jaw pressure habit and ,taking the advice of Tom Ridenour and his 'snugging' technique that also corrects the jaw pressure problem.
The two above approaches to embouchure technique has allowed me to use the less stiffer type of reed and larger MP tip opening and still get a full range and good tone.
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