The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: klook
Date: 2011-07-18 01:17
I have a great old H. Selmer Albert clarinet that I was just getting ready to overhaul when I saw something that stopped me dead in my tracks: the top finger bush has a big chip out of it.
Now I know the whole bush can be replaced, which is beyond my skill level and costly, but what about a repair to the existing bush?
I noticed Ferrees is selling these plugs for putting in clarinet toneholes while doing glue/wood dust work. Basically the glue won't stick to the plug and also won't go down in the bore. What if one were to use this and build up the chip with glue/wood dust, then level it out? Its a fairly big chip really, maybe a 1/3 of the front portion of the bush is gone. That might be pushing it, I'm just overestimating to get a realistic response as to its possibility!!
thanks
mark
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2011-07-18 02:15
I've used some of those small rubber plugs available from laboratory suppliers with a wrap of plumbers teflon tape. The glue won't stick to the teflon. Alternatively, following on from a tip I got on this net for repairing tenons, a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the bore of the hole wrapped up to size with teflon tape. You can get the tape for pennies in any hardware store. I used Araldite epoxy glue with wood dust produced from an old lower joint I keep specially for the purpose, but probably any epoxy would do the job. Avoid the 5 minute setting type, they produce a fairly soft material.
Tony F.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-07-18 02:21
You should be able to build it up with superglue and wood dust, then finish it off by trimming with a sharp scalpel and filing to shape. This will be a permanent repair provided you degrease the chipped area and rough it up (scratch it with a file or scalpel) to make the glue adhere better.
Level the top with a tonehole topper made from round metal bar (brass, nickel silver or steel) with the face machined flat and glue abrasive paper onto it. Get the repaired section of the chimney as level as you can with the rest of it with a file and finish it off by holding the tonehole topper firmly against it and turning it until it's all smoothed down.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2011-07-18 19:13
I would combine the 2 approaches noted above i.e. make a dowel to fit and wrap with tape or even clingfilm then build up using superglue and grenadilla dust.
Quicker and rather harder finish than araldite and can be finished to look just like the original wood.
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