Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-04-17 09:44
>> How do you do that? Did I just not hit it hard enough?
Probably. You also need a hard enough material to hit it on/with, otherwise it would just dig into it. You can also press it flat if you have something with enough force for it.
>> the repairmen I've gone to have reamed the screw seat out slightly
>> to allow the screw to be tightened completely without binding.
That's true for pivot screws (at least some of them), but I was referring to rod screws. I'll try to explain better. The end of the rod screw hits the post face, but if there is some misalignment (either the post face, the rod screw, or both), the rod screw would bent only when fully tightened, causing the hinge tube to bind over it. There is no hole to ream farther in the hinge like on hinge rods mounted on pivot screws.
So check that for all keys, whether they are mounted on pivot screw or rod screws. First check if there's binding, without the spring, when screws are fully tightened. If there isn't then it's already a very good sign. If there is, check with the screw slightly loosened (loosen gradually and keep checking).
>> but on a good instrument should it be left alone
>> if a screw needs to backed off to unbind it?
It should ideally be fixed and not by leaving the screw not tightened. With pivot screws, weak Loctite (or equivalent) can be a very good option, actually almost as good as any repair. For rod screws it's more complicated and often doesn't work so well. It can get tricky to repair this issue but first better check if it's even an issue.
Once you can check whether there is any binding without the springs (then with screws completely tightened and loosened) then it will probably be possible to have better suggestions.
Post Edited (2017-04-17 09:46)
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