Author: SecondTry
Date: 2021-03-17 05:22
leonardalterman@gmail.com wrote:
> I tried this on two reeds and after each one the reed would not
> make a sound. No air flowing through the horn. Any
> suggestions.
Leonard, I can't speak for anyone's technique but my own, nor why after your application of the technique those reeds became unmanageable.
What I can say is that having broken reeds with this technique when first trying it, to my way of seeing things, the flick against the reed is more like that I might effect to "motivate a fly to stop sitting on my kitchen table:" i.r. it's light.
How much of the reed I keep on the mouthpiece and how far down I flick the part of the reed that hangs off the side of the mouthpiece are also relevant too IMHO. The less of the tip you leave on the mouthpiece and the closer to the butt end of the reed you flick, all other things equal, IMHO, the more (controlled) damage that you'll do to the reed and the greater risk you'll encounter in taking that reed to "unplayable places."
Like all things reed, "less is more" as you can always exacerbate controlled damage to the fibers with additional flicks, but once you've done too much, well, all you end up with is your reed being "firewood."
It is not uncommon for me to take more of the reed on to the mouthpiece and start with a few flicks distanced from the butt end, followed by a test play. As mentioned in prior posts, I'm also going to try this while holding the reed at angles other than my historical perpendicular only one, to see if I can match each of a reed's sides in strength as the OP suggests.
I also believe, like all techniques, including reed sanding, (my preferred method being use of the ATG product) that there are limits to how much good it will do, and of course this utility will vary among reeds.
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