Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-11-08 10:12
>> If I don't bevel the edges, yes, that happens. <<
Why would you not bevel the edges? Or at least the outer edge (since the socket isn't trying to "climb" the inner edge anyway)? It takes a few seconds (maybe 30 seconds if it's very slow) so insignificant time.
In your first post you said: "it's almost impossible to fit a barrel without the cork sliding away, as it's never been compressend before."
This is what I mean if you can clarify. If it doesn't happen when you bevel the edge, then bevel edge, which I would recommend to do anyway, problem solved
If it happens often even when beveling, that's the glue not being strong enough IMO or the cork is much too thick. With good glue, even when the cork is much too thick, so much that it's very difficult or even impossible to assemble, the cork still won't slide off.
>> The cork quality that we get here is still good <<
I'm not sure where "here" is (maybe I missed it in one of the posts) but you mentioned Pisoni. I got cork from Pisoni and most other suppliers, including the main one in Portugal which AFAIK most suppliers get their cork from. It's very variable from any source IME.
>> But since the cork doesn't rotate at all when putting the joints together, I don't see any reason not to use my tape. <<
I'm not saying not to use the tape. If it works for you it's fine. I've tried strong double sided tape and decided against it.
It's not surprising it peels/pushes off without rotating. All glues are much better in shear than peel, so it's expected it would do exactly that. Rotating is trying to move the entire glued joint at once (more or less), compared with peeling which is just a small area at a time.
In the extremely rare case that it peels/pushes off even with contact glue, it's exactly the same, doesn't rotate. It's a matter of the amount of force needed to cause it to happen.
Post Edited (2017-11-08 10:14)
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