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Re: Magnehelic (Mag Tester)

Author: KSCop
Date: 2017-01-08 23:07

'Sucking air' to test for leaks is moving the air in the opposite direction than when playing. I like to test by bkowing air in; hence the 'vapor injection' testing that I do as well as the magnehelic,

The vapor injection is nice because I can inject it at low pressure, similar to playing pressure and visually see any leaks.

The Magnehelic is more scientific and I can actually see the reading go down as I heat a pad to float it in.

My usual procedure is to pull all the keys, then plug the body and test with the magnehelic. This gives me a base line for the body. Plastic horns usually read 0 unless there is a crack. Wood instruments vary but should be below 1.

Then as I install the newly padded keys, I install one key at a time, plugging the other holes. I get a reading (usually high since the pad isn't seated). I then float the pad and get the best reading I can (usually the same as the body reading). Then I move on to the next key and repeat the process. Once a joint is done, I test it as a unit. Then once the horn is done, I assemble it and test the whole thing.

The Magnehlic gives a nice clear reading.

I work on a lot of OLD instruments doing restorations and some have been sitting in some questionable places. Much nicer to have a more sanitary approach.

The machine has made my repair process much easier. I'm still pretty anal about testing and getting the best seal possible but it has helped my turn-around time quite a bit.

A simple re-pad is down to 60 minutes including cleaning & polishing keys. I don't know if that's quick or not, but it is for me.

My last two overhauls had MAG readings of under 1 for the whole horn. They were both plastic bodies - A Vito Reso-Tone 3 and a V40.

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Magnehelic (Mag Tester) new

KSCop

2017-01-05 06:58