Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2014-12-17 21:35
Dan Shusta wrote:
> Even though Grabner's approach works well for him, after a fair
> amount of research on the Internet, I'm inclined, now, to agree
> with Dr. Segal's method.
>
I'm not sure this is a case where "it works well for Grabner" makes Walter a special case, as though the topic were reeds, mouthpieces or embouchures. If gentle heat works for Walter, and gentle coolness works for Allan, then maybe the truth is that any condition that lowers the surrounding humidity and draws moisture out of the wood will work.
> During my research about stuck barrels, I found out that cork
> material is very susceptible to dimensional changes with
> temperature.
This is the crux of the issue. Most of the time when a barrel binds on a tenon, the cork isn't what's causing the bind. It's the wood of the tenon, either the end or the shoulder where the tenon starts, and the wood barrel.
> And, another little tidbit concerned a "preventive" approach
> used by one player who put some cork grease on the tenon wood
> below the cork.
>
It might prevent a mild bind where the fit is only slightly too tight, but I have my doubts about it's ability to prevent the really stuck barrels we've been talking about. And you risk getting the cork grease into the bore, where it can collect dirt. My experience is that these binds don't just happen all of a sudden one day. It has been hard to get the barrel all the way in for a few days. Once you begin to feel that, it's usually worth having a tech look at it before it really gets stuck. Routinely greasing the tenon end might help, but I suspect it could cause a mess and is a solution to a problem that most of the time doesn't exist.
Karl
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