Author: BartHx
Date: 2014-08-27 02:53
Paul:
I started playing the clarinet in 1952. A scan of recent posts will show that there are many opinions relative to cracking and what should be done about it. I have no desire to extend that further. However, I have always used wooden clarinets and have used them in all conditions from marching in snow storms to concerts in concert halls to marching at 100+ F in direct sun. I still have every clarinet I have used with the newest being from the late 1960s. My oiling technique came from professional repair text books and I have never had ANY problem with wood cracking. In fact, one that had several small cracks when I acquired it no longer has any detectable evidence of cracking after having only my normal maintenance over a period of years. With that experience, I will continue using my maintenance approach and, if someone asks me what to do to avoid cracking, will give them my routine. If your method works equally well for you, I have no intention of trying to change change your mind. We use what works for us.
On the other hand, if your most recent post is actually referring back to the top of the list of posts, I apologize for misunderstanding your reference.
Halo1115:
A well oiled clarinet is NOT oily to the touch. I only know of two ways that an average person can tell the amount of oil in the instrument's wood in the absence of specialized tools. 1. Some instruments will take on a dull and somewhat grey color when they are low on oil. 2. Your instrument is low on oil if bore oil applied to the surface soaks into the wood. If oil remains on the surface, it should be gently wiped clean and dry. A well maintained bore should look smooth and shiny. My Kohlert is about 80 years old and the bore is still smooth and shiny. In the process of curing, wood loses the vast majority of liquid within its cells (depending on humidity) leaving only the cell walls. When the wood in a clarinet is oiled, the oil migrates into the empty wood cells and, in doing so, increases the dimensional stability of the wood and excludes the intrusion of moisture. There is no purpose for oil on the outside surface of the wood, so the surface would be dry to the touch. I have no idea if some manufacturers have developed treatments that reduce the need for oil on their newest instruments, but you indicated that yours is older. I work almost exclusively with older instruments.
|
|