The Clarinet BBoard

Re: older Master Model Buffet parts

Author: clarnibass  Date:   2012-07-22 04:46 >> I can't do Clarnibass's suggestion about testing rod diameter first << One rod is about $3 (about half a meter long). What I recommend is to measure with a micrometer and then buy the two closest sizes, if you are ordering online, on the phone, etc. If you are going to a store then just take the key with you and check. If you are considering buying a die, some pliers and ordfered a micrometer, then an extra $3 is almost nothing in comparison... >> how do I know what size threading die to get << Maybe someone remembers the size of this clarinet model. You can buy a thread measuring tool. Preferably two, one for American threads and one for millimeter threads. Ferree's Tools has good ones but you can probably find them in many stores (search online). It's important to get ones with the right sizes of threads so it's a good idea to buy from a woodwind instrument repair supplier like Ferree's Tools. There is another way that most of the times works for finding the thread size. You need a camera with a Macro mode for this. Take a photo as big and sharp as possible, along with the diameter of the threads (which is often smaller than the rod diameter itself). It is then usually possible to find out the thread size. You can try yourself if you know how or I can try for you if you want. I can also email you a chart with the more common woodwind thread sizes, then you can narrow down the options based on diameter. >> the broken spring is flush...of course... << Well, I asked just because most of the time it breaks with a little stub left and there are different ways to remove them. If it's flush, the best tool is the pliers such as these http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/tool-pl104.html They even have a video on that page that explains how to use them (remember to push with the screw where the spring is broken) and these particular ones look good to me. Sometimes the whole thing is too messed up and even these pliers won't work, but this is rare. For installing the new spring, or removing a broken spring where there's still a stub left, use pliers like these http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/tool-pl100.html These look decent though Ferree's Tools, Boehm Tool and other places might have even better ones IMO (but also more expensive). >> The A G# damage is to the cups, and the A arm no longer meets its respective key hole. << If the cup itself is distorted (i.e. not in relation to its arm) then most common to put it against flat steel surface and tap it flat. You can also use big flat jaw pliers in a controlled way to try to see if you can do anything with them. For any bending that involved the key arm, the most useful pliers to me are the small parallel flat jaw pliers, like these http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/tool-pl250.html Also helpful are duckbill pliers, like these http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/tool-pl201.html By the way if the key cup is not aligned with the tone hole length-wise, then either the key arm is severely bent, or that's just the way it was made. I've seen old Buffets (even their top model at the time) with this problem. Here are a few more pliers I use to align key cups over tone holes. The first two are home-made. The third is modified from a pair of Ferree's pliers that is mostly useless without this modification. The first two are use most woodwinds while the last mostly on saxophones. Here is a photo of the spring pliers (one for installing and removing stubs and two types of pliers for removing springs broken flush with the post). Post Edited (2012-07-22 04:46)

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