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Re: DIY repad tips

Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2010-04-02 13:52

"but I couldn't get the hang of heating the cups while they were still on the instrument, burned a couple pads, and some resonite "

The trick is to use the SIDE of the flame, i.e. the flame makes a "glancing blow' across the back of the key cup.

And use the visible part of the flame - alcohol is not so good because the flame is not too visible. I find a small-diameter Bunsen burner to be very good.

I'm glad you remove all the solder from the soldering iron, so as not to get it on the key.

Normally a soldering iron RELIES on some solder on it, for good conduction of heat direct to the workpiece. Are you relying on such conduction, or is it heating the key mainly via the air between the key and the iron?

You would probably like an electrical resistance heater, such as
http://www.votawtool.com/zcom.asp?pg=products&specific=jnprjnl0

This effectively makes the key itself, the equivalent of the element in your soldering iron. It's excellent for heating pivot tubes as part of a rust weakening process.

Post Edited (2010-04-02 13:56)

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jasperbay

2010-03-29 20:02