 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-10-27 11:06
I just purchased a new Cordier reed trimmer. There are no instructions. I also purchased Guy's book on reeds. He has reed trimmer on his equipment list, but I didn't see any discussion of its use.
I'd appreciate tips on how to use it. For example, should the reed be trimmed when dry or wet? I assume the former. Also, in searching the Sneezy posts a while back, I recall seeing something about how fast or how far to move the cutting handle.
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2000-10-27 11:53
I just sent an email to Larry Guy seeing if he could come on the BBoard and add the missing info.
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Author: pete
Date: 2000-10-27 12:12
try and get hold of a vandoren reed clipper they are much easier to use and come with instructions, but you will need to hurry as I heard that they stopped making them I was lucky to get mine.
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Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2000-10-27 13:40
I've tried many kinds of reed trimmers, and Cordier is by far the best. The Vandoren is expensive, hard to use, inaccurate and a danger to your fingers when you use it and even more so when you try to replace the blade, which is a tiny razor blade that has to be bent into shape.
To use the Cordier:
1. Adjust the positioning screw (at the butt end) to about the middle of its travel.
2. Open the spring clip.
3. Put the reed on the trimmer. Do not close the spring clip.
4. Hold the reed on the trimmer with your finger and turn the trimmer over.
5. Adjust the reed so the end of the tip is just slightly beyond the end of the "tongue" of the trimmer and under the cutter.
6. ***Very important*** Move the butt of the reed left or right so that equal amounts of the edges show along the sides of the tongue of the trimmer.
7. Close the spring clip.
8. Adjust the positioning screw so that a small amount of the reed tip is showing over the cutting edge -- maybe the width of a pencil line.
9. Make a final check and adjustment to be sure equal amounts of the rails are showing and the existing tip outline matches the cutting edge.
10. Clip the tip, using a rather quick motion of the lever.
Different mouthpiece makers have different curves on the tip. You may have to clip twice, with tiny adjustments left and right, to make the curves match. Be particularly careful that the corners of the tip are not too low. Makers often leave a very thin closure area at the corners, and any leak is fatal.
I usually have to round off the sharp corners of the reed very slightly after clipping it. A fine nail file is perfect. Always stroke upward, from the outside toward the middle.
Some people say you should force the blade of the Cordier trimmer all the way through the cutter. I strongly disagree. That ruins the cutting edge and makes the cutter splinter the tip.
Cordier trimmers are fairly expensive, and they are vulnerable if you just dump them in your case. You should at least keep it in a plastic bag or wrap it up in a handkerchief. Don't wrap it in your swab, since it will rust. Even then, the trimmer only lasts a few years before it starts to cut raggedly. It's a necessary expense, though.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Anji
Date: 2000-10-27 13:45
I have a thirty-year-old cordier that still trims as new. Larry Guy's book will provide all the essentials, and some exposition on reed adjustment.
Here's some goodies about the Cordier that were not immediately obvious (okay, so I'm a little slow on the uptake)...
1) The small vernier screw on the bottom should be used to feed the reed into the cutter, this is the only way to get precise control of the cut size.
2) Don't try to set the screw all the way back, the mechanism is too loose to travel straight forward from there. With no reed inserted, back the screw out to the end, then turn 1/2 revolution in to the starting point. (Righty tighty, lefty loosey).
3) Watch out for the pivot pin holding the spring in place, it is a little loose. If it falls out, use a vacuum cleaner with panty house over the nozel to find it.
4) Measure twice, cut once. With a strong light at your back, make the reed straight in the trimmer. With the reed face away from you, check to see the same amount of reed on either side of the steel blade, top to bottom. I adjust this with my trimming knife. This may be the most difficult/vital step.
5) Use the Vernier screw to advance the reed into the cutter. You need trim only a very small piece at any time. (Adding wood is rather difficult.)
6) You may not be immediately satisfied with the results. Leave such a reed alone until the next day. It makes a difference, and I certainly couldn't say why.
7) Cuttem' dry. The wet ones, if they're really thin, will tear. You want a shearing action.
8) Alcohol and reed cutting don't mix. Okay, it's not heavy machinery, but getting a good reed is as much about restraint as judgement... not that I've ever had sush a neggadif eshperiensh. I luv you man!
I've tried other cutters with more features, but this one really works fine.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2000-10-27 14:08
Great advice, Ken and Anji, I'm a long time user and your discussions represent my experience, except for "dry vs wet". As an old [poor] oboe reed maker, I have had good success clipping wet reeds, being afraid of splits, no warped ones, however. I usually trim a very thin slice, test and repeat till I'm happy with it. Having given away my tenor sax trimmer to my son-grandson, I just now bought a new one, looks good, and will use it for the T S reeds I play on my bass cl Sel C* mp. Keep clipping along!! Don
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Author: Larry Guy
Date: 2000-10-27 14:50
I've read through the other reed trimmer tips which have been sent in, and think they are very good. Here are a few ideas which may not have been covered yet:
1) I agree that Cordier is the best trimmer, but try to look at 3 or 4 before you select one, and especially look at the shape of the edge of the blade--they vary, and one will probably be closest to the shape of your mouthpiece tip.
2) I like to have the reed moist when ready to cut. When the reed is moist, you can flatten out that little "tip ribbon", if there is one, by rubbing the reed on a flat piece of glass. This will make the cut cleaner and easier.
3) If you are cutting with a moist reed, wipe the reed trimmer off after use. They do rust eventually.
4) Someone else has probably already said this, but Daniel Bonade's idea that you only trim a hair's-breadth at a time is so, so true. Even if the tip feels very soft, keep your trim to a minimum.
5) If, after you trim, you play the reed and think you need to trim more, force yourself to WAIT a day. Play the reed the next day, and re-evaluate. It may feel as though the resistance is fine, miraculously enough. If it is still too soft, clip another hair's-breadth.
6) If you need to reshape the tip after trimming to match your mouthpiece tip, I suggest a fine (versus coarse) emory board. Focus especially on the edges of the reed, and always swipe towards the center of the reed only--not a 2-way action.
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Author: Bill
Date: 2000-10-27 14:58
I was hesitant to ask this question about reed trimmers. I thought this might be the first dumb question, bearing in mind that "there are no dumb questions."
Thanks to all for the tips, and so quickly. It seems like the Cordier really should come with instructions. Maybe they do, and mine was missing from the package.
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Author: Anji
Date: 2000-10-27 21:15
The instructions are translations from the original Korean (not much help).
BTW - Do what Larry tells you, he really did "Write the book".
Hey Larry, Susan Martula says Hi!
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Author: Ken Rasmussen
Date: 2000-10-28 02:19
Dear Bill:
Thanks for asking that dumb question. I picked up a couple of pointers from it too. One thing that makes me happy is that I was agonizing over what trimmer to buy for my bass clarinet--I've been using a Van Doren with my soprano--and I got the Cordier. I'm very pleased to hear that it is well liked.
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