 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Morrigan
Date: 2005-04-24 04:17
Hey everyone
I've been loving Gonzalez; complete utter superiority to Vandoren.
I'm just a little stumped about adjusting them. I know exactly what to do to a Vandoren but when it comes to making that Gonzalez that's a little too hard and unresponsive, it seems my old tricks don't work and I can only play on them if they're 'ready' straight from the box.
What's everyone else found helps with Gonzalez? Thanks.
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Author: mkybrain
Date: 2005-04-24 06:55
Every time i try to adjust them, except for maybe a few times, they become create a buzz and it feels like the support is taken out of them. I have been using the ATG system. I only adjust them after break in. For now I just play them straight out of the box which is satisfactory until I can find a better method of adjusting them.
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Author: Morrigan
Date: 2005-04-24 07:09
Yeah, the buzzy thing is what I get too - I think it's because I'm taking too much off the sides.
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Author: moose6589
Date: 2005-04-24 07:57
I've been using the ATG system to adjust them as well, but I don't get any of the buzzing you speak of. At least for me, the ATG system works remarkably well, so that's what I would recommend.
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Author: msloss
Date: 2005-04-24 12:55
Take a little off the rails but stop a couple millimeters before the tip. Don't shave slivers off -- just gently change the slope to a less steep grade. You can also touch it just a bit to either side of the peak of the heart. As a rule, I do not touch the tip because that seems to kill them. Learn to do it with a $30 knife or a 30-cent piece of reed rush because the ATG isn't exactly convenient when you are in rehearsal or on the road.
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Author: DavidBlumberg
Date: 2005-04-24 22:17
The ATG is actually more convienent than any reed rush. Just get a small plate of glass (I actually use the Vandoren plate that comes with their $30 system) - it's compact and works great. You can easily fix the reed on your lap from start to finish and it's quick!
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Author: mkybrain
Date: 2005-04-24 23:10
I must being using it incorrectly then. At first it worked pretty well but after a while i was merely turning reeds into worthless crap. I probably need to watch the dvd again.
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Author: bill28099
Date: 2005-04-25 00:56
For the first time ever I bought a box of Gonzalez Regular Cut #3 but thought they were a bit hard for my Selmer #2, the #1 as well. I scraped a bit with a razor blade up by the cane and sanded and it seemed to work just fine on the #1. Gave one to the girl who sits next to me in band and she liked it on her Sumner #3 as it came out of the box. Then I gave one to my teacher and he thought it was a bit hard so adjusted it by squaring and pealing back the cane a bit. He said it was just fine after that. Now my teacher makes his own reeds and carefully measured just how far he cut back the cane to conform with the reeds he makes. BTW he makes great reeds, every one of them I try is a winner.
When the next one that comes out of the box is too hard I'll measure it against his home made ones and peal the cane back like he did and see what happens. Knowing me it will end up fire wood.
A great teacher gives you answers to questions
you don't even know you should ask.
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Author: GBK
Date: 2005-04-25 20:39
As a regular user of Gonzalez FOF and Mozart reeds, I can offer a few general guidelines:
First, do not play on the reeds too long during the first week. 5 minutes the first day and increase by 5 minutes each day after that for the remainder of the week.
However, the most common mistake that I find is that most players are initially playing the wrong strength reed. The reed should play at approximately the correct strength on FIRST TRIAL out of the box. If you have to appreciably remove a good amount of cane to make the reed play, there is a good chance you are also changing the basic profile, design and template of the reed. Thus after all the carpentry, it no longer resembles a Gonzalez reed.
Due to the nature of their cane, which is quite dense, Gonzalez and Mozart reeds will change dramatically (from a bit too hard to a bit too soft) from first day to 7th day. Eventually after about a week they will stabilize and then any adjustments should be made. Any reed work before the first week (IMO) is premature.
A general flattening of the back of the reed is recommended after the first week. Unlike Vandoren reeds which are harder on the left side, most Gonzalez and Mozart reeds are remarkably balanced out of the box, but checking (and adjusting/balancing, if needed) each side for uniformity is essential.
For me, I think that slightly profiling each side of the reed helps to quicken the response. I accomplish this by holding the reed vertically on the Vandoren reed resurfacer and take each side down with 2 or 3 complete passes. This slight narrowing of the width of the reed, for the mouthpieces I use, makes a big difference.
BTW - As much as I like the Ridenour ATG system (as does Phil Shapiro, from Davie Cane), I feel that more precise control is gotten from the Vandoren reed resurfacer and glass wand. Since getting one about a year ago, I haven't yet needed to use my reed knife...GBK
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Author: Morrigan
Date: 2005-04-25 22:47
Thanks for that GBK - I think my problem might be that I play on them for more than 5 minutes and I tend to favor a few reeds rather than breaking them all in and making a judgement after that period.
It's good to know that you don't recommend necessarily sanding the hell outta them - sometimes it feels like this is all my teacher wants me to do, but I prefer not to because I buy Gonzalez because I like Gonzalez, not a 'sanded-down version'.
Are you SURE they're all quite balanced? I find them to be similar to Vandoren in the fact that the left side is still a little hard.
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Author: DavieCane01
Date: 2005-04-27 02:37
Gonzalez reeds are as even and symmetrical as any reed can possibly be, however, not all mouthpieces are. I don't recommend that you work the tips of these reeds unless absolutely necessary. Vandoren reeds have thicker tips than Gonzalez and Mozart reeds. Therefore, your usual tip adjustments could easily result in the tip becoming too thin, with the resultant buzzing and chirping that are almost inevetible.
Msloss and GBK (hey guys) are absolutely spot on with their advice. Follow them and I'll bet you have better results.
As always, I'm available to answer questions by email and phone if you need.
-Phil
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Author: mkybrain
Date: 2005-04-27 03:20
i think my flaw with the atg system was that i having been also sanding the tip when i just need to sand the side of the reed, so that would sensibly account for the buzzing. Usually the left side is too hard for me, and that is probably my mouthpiece.
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Author: GBK
Date: 2005-04-28 15:05
Just so there is no confusion between Mark Sloss' technique for adjusting Gonzalez and mine.
I actually change the width of the reed by profiling it down on the Vandoren resurfacer.
I believe that Mark Sloss takes down the rails but does not change the overall width of the reed.
Both techniques are valid and will work. Try each to see which is more successful for you...GBK
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Author: jim lande
Date: 2005-05-06 22:44
I keep reading that I should play only a few minutes the first time, or even just wet & let dry. Next session play a little longer, etc. What exactly does this do? What does pulling a new reed out of a box and honking for two hours do? Presumably each approach causes some physical changes in the reed. What and how?
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Author: msloss
Date: 2005-05-07 15:07
Glenn's distinction is correct. For myself, I find the reeds are already narrow enough for the facings I play, but I do reduce the thickness of the rails.
Jim, there are numerous papers published on the subject both in the bboard archives and on the web. Run a quick search and you will have more information on arundo donax than you ever, ever wanted to know.
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