 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Hiroshi
Date: 1999-02-17 04:41
This is just a statement of ...frustration about reeds.
Although I have used sand papers and emery papers to flatten the bottom surface of reeds,I dislike them.
Reason:they include polishing materials granulared, however minute they may be.They will remove to the reed bottom jeopadizing lives of canes.Isn't any other way?
Two ways of researches may exit.One way is to study state-of-art techniques and the other is to seek old ways:what players of traditional(1000 years old) wind instruments players have done.
For example,I found Japanese old reed instruments players uses Japanese green tea to dip reeds before playing,not saliva or simple potable water.They may have a solution.
As to state-of-art,now reed manufacturers use machine planers with artificial diamonds cutters.But this is certainly too big to handle.
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Author: Dee
Date: 1999-02-17 12:16
Instead of sand paper, try using ordinary typing paper. Good reeds don't need a lot of polishing. So here is what you do.
1. Soak the reed and then wipe the water off well. Maybe use a towel to soak up as much as possible. If the reed is too damp, it won't polish well.
2. Lay the typing paper on a flat surface.
3. Lay the back of the reed of the paper and rub it back and forth. The back of the reed will become smoother than glass.
4. Then take a piece of paper and rub the top of the reed from the base toward the tip to seal the pores.
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Author: Kevin Bowman
Date: 1999-02-17 13:49
I use a similar method for polishing reeds. I use 600 grit and sometimes 400 grit emery paper. After soaking and rubbing the reeds for two consecutive days (15-20 min. each day), I inspect the reed for warp deformation. I do this by first polishing the back of the reed with the *back* of the sandpaper (it has about the same texture as typing paper but is more durable). After polishing the back of the reed, inspect the surface under light to see that it has and even sheen across the entire surface. If the sheen is not even, the reed is probably warped. If the reed is warped I sand the back with 600 grit sandpaper (or 400 if the warp is really bad - but if it's that bad the chances of the reed turning out to be playable are slim) until I feel that it is flat then polish again to check and to "seal" the back surface. Only when the reed is warp-free do I begin to work on the profile side. Then only bit by bit.
I play test the reed first to determine it's relative stiffness. If it's too stiff I go at it with 600 grit sandpaper over the entire cut (yes, the heart too) but stay away from the tip. I do this *lightly* taking special care not to change to actual profile too much. Then when the reed plays just a bit stiff I only sand the rails (for balance). If the reed is too *light*, the tip is proably too thin and I will use a reed trimmer to cut the tip back a bit. However, this often requires sanding the vamp back a bit as well. When I've got the reed where I want it, I then buff to top side with the back of the sandpaper.
Anyway - back on subject - I used to use reed rush and a knife but now use sandpaper exclusively. You have to soak reed rush and it also wears out. The use of a knife makes it too easy to really screw up a good reed. Sandpaper lasts forever and is just as easy to use as rush if cut in small enough squares (I cut pieces to about 1 sq. in. for sanding the top side and 2" X 3" for sanding and buffing the back).
I've been using the same pieces of sandpaper for the last year. In fact, it seems kind of rediculous to purchase an entire package of emery paper to use less than 1/8 of a single 8x10 sheet. So I cut it up and give pieces to my students.
Kevin Bowman
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Author: Rick2
Date: 1999-02-17 14:03
Why is durability a concern? You get pieces of typing paper in the mail every day.
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Author: Kevin Bowman
Date: 1999-02-17 14:16
Rick2 wrote:
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Why is durability a concern? You get pieces of typing paper in the mail every day.
True.
But if your reed is too wet, typing paper doesn't hold up so well (kind of like when you rub too hard with an eraser). The back of sandpaper (the kind I use anyway) holds up much better under a (slightly) wet reed.
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Author: Justice
Date: 1999-02-17 18:31
Yeah,
I used to sand my reeds down and use reed rush and soak them and all that other garbage people do to their reeds. But, I prefer to just slap on one of my Vandoren V16 #5's and start playing.
And, remember every minute that you spend fooling around with your reeds, is a minute spent NOT practicing.
Justice
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Author: Frank
Date: 1999-02-17 22:38
Some of the discourse on reed preparation is mystical and beyond rational consideration. Talk of sandpaper scratching and leaving grooves smacks of the ultramundane. Any scratches or grooves are squeezed shut [should they exist] when the reed is moistened. Remember there is a ultra thin layer of moisture between the reed and the mouthpiece.
Marine [waterproof] sandpaper works and it lasts. I have a 400+ sheet that I have used for over ten years. It is speedier and far more accurate than reed rush. [I may also take a few swipes with a reed knife to the flat side of a reed that has evident ridges, but this takes some skill.]
I generally do not soak any reed for more than 1-2 minutes, since it is not likely to get any wetter than that when played.
At the end of the day, waterproof sandpaper is a better medium than rush. Additionally, it takes a steady hand to use a knife or razor blade on the shaped side of a reed.
For those who have not tried using sandpaper, I suggest buying a box of ten of your favorite reed either at the same level or at one-half a step above what you ordinarily play and learn to shape them down with a sheet of 400+ layed onto a flat surface. Do not sand across the grain, but with it, in short strokes. In sanding the shaped side of the reed, don't be afraid to flex it as you thin the outside portions. Wet reed is quite flexible.
Of course you may wish to use a finer grit than 400+. However be sure the paper is marine [waterproof] grade.
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Author: Dee
Date: 1999-02-18 00:15
Justice wrote:
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Yeah,
I used to sand my reeds down and use reed rush and soak them and all that other garbage people do to their reeds. But, I prefer to just slap on one of my Vandoren V16 #5's and start playing.
And, remember every minute that you spend fooling around with your reeds, is a minute spent NOT practicing.
Justice
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While I don't care to spend a lot of time adjusting reeds, a modest amount does seem to pay big dividends. I can play the reeds without adjusting them at all of course but the response is improved if I put a little effort into them.
Afterall one can't practice all the time. The embouchure, arm, etc do get tired. So a person might as well sacrifice a little of their non-playing time on reed preparation.
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Author: Tim2
Date: 1999-02-18 02:28
I dislike sandpaper also.
I use used typing paper with one side clear. As you know, you can take it off (the wood) but you can't put it back on. This way is the safest for me.
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 1999-02-18 02:59
I use a mill bastard file for light work. It's perfectly flat and takes off _very_ little cane.
For removing more wood I use #400 and #600 Wet or Dry sandpaper, available at any place that has an automotive section (K-Mart, Wal-Mart, Meijer's, etc. - it'll be in the refinishing section and costs a couple of dollars for an assortment that will last you years). I don't use emory paper - the abrasive tends to come loose from the paper, causing all sorts of problems.
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Author: Margaret Copeland
Date: 1999-02-20 14:36
Hi,
I can't really comment on the sandpaper. For oboe reeds I use wet/dry sandpaper but somehow (totally subjective)I prefer a surface that has been scraped with a very sharp reed knife. I've tried reeds that have been totally sanded to shape and well - they are different and not to my liking. Have no idea what a clarinet player would prefer.
What got my attention was the statement about using *green tea*. I play once a week with my piano buddy - we always have green tea first and I took a cup of it to her studio. Not having a bowl of water, I popped my oboe reeds in there to soak up. The reeds like it ! - might be the acid or the other special qualities green tea has in it. Regular tea tea isn't the same.
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Author: Ray Swing
Date: 1999-02-24 22:57
I'm with you Justice. I just grab a V12 and wet it with saliva for about a minute, get the excess saliva off, slap it on and play. Of course, I'm not a pro and my livelihood doesn't depend on me playing to the nth degree every time I put a reed on. Also, if a particular reed doesn't perform that day, I just switch to one of my other four I carry which usually perform OK.
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Author: Dee
Date: 1999-02-25 00:47
Ray Swing wrote:
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I'm with you Justice. I just grab a V12 and wet it with saliva for about a minute, get the excess saliva off, slap it on and play. Of course, I'm not a pro and my livelihood doesn't depend on me playing to the nth degree every time I put a reed on. Also, if a particular reed doesn't perform that day, I just switch to one of my other four I carry which usually perform OK.
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Although I know how to adjust reeds and do so occasionally, most of the time I generally just play them (although my reeds of choice are Mitchell Lurie and Vandoren).
One recommendation though: CARRY MORE THAN FOUR!!
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Author: Ray Swing
Date: 1999-02-25 19:29
I carry my super 4 in my Vandoren Reed Holder and a box of "good" V-12's in my case.
R.S.
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Author: Ray Swing
Date: 1999-02-25 19:29
I carry my super 4 in my Vandoren Reed Holder and a box of "good" V-12's in my case.
R.S.
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