 Keepers
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Author: mark weinstein
Date: 2000-11-23 13:53
Thought I would share ----
Once you've got the (necessaary) Crayon ... its use really almost borders on art.
I go across the grain of the wood around a Trademark (say, like on the Bell of an R-13, from left to right, and from right to left) ... it really fills IN the Trademark impression. Going WITH the grain is a waste of materials, IMO.
Saska covers this in his manual.
What nobody says to do AFTERWARDS, was important to me.
The (trademark gilding) Crayons seem to have some amount of oil & moisture within the crayon material. When I would (immediately, upon using the crayon) wipe away any excess I also wiped part of the crayon in the trademark away.
If you wanted to be a real artist like my wife, you could probably spend a lot of time and clean any residue from the area, avoiding removal of the "good crayon".
My solution is to let the crayon-gilded area DRY thoroughly. This does a MUCH better job, I looked at a R-13 bell this a.m, that was done 36 hours ago. I applied a some cotton (clean) rag to the area. VOILE only the excess comes off (its not perfect by any means, but a noticeable an improvement -0-- this is the 3rd or 4th one I have done this way).
BTW: Buffet uses a DIFFERENT crayon than the Selmer crayon that Ferree's ONLY sells.
mw
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Author: J. Butler
Date: 2000-11-23 15:40
Mark,
I feel that is very important to clean out the trademark lines. I very carefully take a wax pick (from jewelery supply houses) and clean the lines, including any old trade mark. I cover the lines completely in a fashion similar to what you describe above. I then take a tissue and wipe off the execess. When doing overhauls I first clean and polish the wood. I then apply the trademark. I sometimes oil the wood on the outside LIGHTLY, other times I do not depending in the condition of the wood, then I wax and buff the wood using flannel cloth strips. If I oil the outside of the wood I let it soak in thoroughly before waxing the wood. The oil, if used, and wax tend to take off any trademark that is in grain lines outside of the trademark area. This tends to make the overall process look neater. I have not tried letting the crayon dry...perhaps I'll try it on the next clarinet overhaul.
John
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Author: Lelia
Date: 2000-11-23 15:46
Thanks for the good suggestions. I haven't had very good results with crayons so far and will try this advice.
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Author: Willie
Date: 2000-11-23 16:12
I've found that buffing it down with a dollar bill works good too as it is mostly cotton and silk. Also if the crayon is cold, it doesn't want to pack into the lines easy. I warm mine up with a hair drier first and then apply.
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Author: mark weinstein
Date: 2000-11-23 17:17
John, its not clear to me what Kerry (by far my better half) did to clean these last few Bells & Upper Joints of prior residue, etc. (she did, but with what I don't know). She is an expert with art supplies. I'll see if I can "get" it out of her. (I have thought of using one of her many special erasers).
It was Kerry's idea to let the Crayon's dry, as she said no matter what was done, it was smearing & being removed.
The cleaning & removing residue are no doubt good imperative ... yes, building a base ... just like primer etc. Saska covers using "bronzing powder", as well.
I inquired regarding the possibility of her painting the Trademark (she has done China painting in the past) and after studying an R-13 bell she handed it back to me and said "Here. No." : - ) mw
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Author: Nate Zeien
Date: 2000-11-24 12:21
Hmmm... Rather interesting topic. I have found that rather than rubbing horizontally with the crayon, it works better to rub from all directions, as there are horizontal and vertical depressions of the logo. I usually have pretty good luck using a tissue to rub away the excess. Not too hard, though. Rub it softly for more times, and it won't take the wax out of the depressions. Also, I feel that if wax is left in the grain of the wood, you may as well not bother, as it looks very shoddy. For removing the wax from the logo, I find that a soft bristled toothbrush works quite well. These are just a few things that I do. Sometimes, I prefer not to bother with the crayon, as I rather like the old, yet gracefully worn look of an antique clarinet. -- Nate Zeien
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Author: Doug Perrenoud
Date: 2000-11-24 14:17
What kind of crayons are you using? Mark mentions that Ferree's sells the Selmer crayon - can I use that on my Buffet? Or can I get a Buffet crayon elsewhere? I would love to try this.
Doug
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Author: mark weinstein
Date: 2000-11-24 15:29
The Buffet Crayon is 514, while the Selmer is 510. They are close, but are somewhat different in color. Nate & others are correct in that the base material in Crayons is wax.
The (special) Crayons can only be purchased by repair shops & retail distributors. Ferree's sells in tyheir catalogue for $9.95. If anybody wants more info, please contact me offlist. mw
Nate, antique is good. BUT do you want 1980-1999 models to look like antiques? :-) However, my bent *is* to use it everywhere. DSFDF. When I see a 1940 Buffet fully restored to its "glory" with a Crayon, causing the Trademark to be prominently "noticeable" ... it sure looks nice to me. Many of these trademarks wouldn't even be noticed without the Crayon as they are faint. So, to me, the more we can bring back faint (worn) impressions, the better.
BTW: I, too, start out with a soft toothbush.
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The Clarinet Pages
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