 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Ken Rasmussen
Date: 2002-06-25 04:42
I don't know if this is a common problem or not, but the floor peg on my bass clarinet tends to slip. I solved the difficulty by using a couple of 1/8" tapered pipe thread plumbing fittings, one male and one female. I bored them for a close fit on the floor peg, split the male fitting axially with a hacksaw to the bottom of the thread(twice, each slot running perpendicular to the other), and trimmed off the unnecessary end of each fitting. When the two pieces are threaded together tightly they cannot slip on the peg, so they act as a stop. By locating the stop right below the clamp the horn is prevented from slipping downward on the peg. If you always use the same height chair, you can leave the stop in place, and it will find the position of the floor peg accurately when you assemble the horn. I did the work with a lathe, but it could be done (more awkwardly) with a drill, hacksaw, and file. How have you addressed the problem?
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Author: Dan Borlawsky
Date: 2002-06-25 11:52
Ken,
The father of one of my students fashioned a piece of wood about 2-1/2" long by 3/4" wide, with a slot about 1/4" deep cut into one side (the long way). The student used this as a wrench to apply more leverage to the wing nut/bolt which holds the peg. Of course, with a very strong student, there is a risk of snapping off the bolt, so I'm not sure this is a totally brilliant solution, but it worked for us this year.
Your solution certainly sounds better and would be less likely to cause breakage, but why can't the manufacturer come up with a simple peg idea that won't slip?
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-06-25 13:19
I'm very glad to see this thread!, having the same problem with my older Selmer, and being cautious as to the degree of tightening the knurled bolt/nut. My simple-minded solution is to wrap a length of masking tape around the peg at the desired height, and only tighter the bolt to prevent the peg from falling out! The tape can be unwound and rewound to accommodate chair height and surface differences. I also found [in hardware] rubber "feet" which reduce floor-slipping. These solve my problems. Good luck, Don
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Author: Jean
Date: 2002-06-25 13:37
You could use a "rock-stop" used by string players. I think that is what they call it. It lookes kind of like a hockey puck. Simply stick the peg into the circular piece in the middle.
My problem when I play bass isn't the floor part (my Buffet has a little rubber ball that rests on the floor). The trouble I have is getting the nut tight enough without stripping it.
Jean
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Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2002-06-25 13:44
I have the same problem on my 1967 Buffet bass. It's hard to tighten the wing nut enough to prevent slipping. My solution was to use the same surgical tubing I use on my thumb rests. I cut short pieces (about 1/2") and slip them over the ears of the wing nut. That gives plenty of leverage and saves bruising my fingers.
For floor slipping, a great suggestion was made here about a year ago. Get a Super Ball at a toy store, drill a hole (carefully -- they're brittle) and stick it on the end of the peg. Super Balls have incredible friction. (Current Buffet basses have a rubber ball on the end of the peg.)
Another possibility is to get a cello peg holder. It's a rubber disk, about 5" in diameter, with a metal cup set into the center.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-06-25 19:25
Taking a cue from Ken's rubber tubing idea, I cut a small centered hole in an extra rubber "foot", and forced it onto the peg where it fits very tightly and affords a "stop" of peg slippage. Its better than my tape idea, IMHO, but both will work inexpensively! Don
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Author: Ken Rasmussen
Date: 2002-06-26 01:54
Hmmm. I guess I wasn't clear enough as to what sort of slipping. My problem was that the horn tended to slide down the peg. I wasn't referring to the peg slipping on the floor. I actually made a whole new floor peg in my first attempt to solve the problem. I thought that I was having the difficulty because the peg was such an inconsistant diameter. It varied by over .015". I made a new peg that was consistant within .002", but it still slipped. When I made the new peg I designed the end to be the same dimension as the rubber pegs that are used as bumpers to keep doors from swinging too far open. Consequently I can buy replacement bumpers at the hardware store. They work well, though the super ball idea is intriguing. I agree that super balls have awesome friction. I saw a LeBlanc bass clarinet once that had two clamps for the floor peg, one on the bell, and the other on the wood. That seemed like a really good idea. I worry about the idea of stripping or breaking the clamping screw. I think two clamps is the ultimate solution, with the various forms of stops being good practical answers to the problem. I carry a folding 3 legged camp stool around with the clarinet. That way I can always use the same height adjustment on the peg, and I always sit the same, which I like.
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Author: Mark Charette
Date: 2002-06-26 03:49
An old trick is to grind a flat on a peg that slips so that the thumbscrew has a flat place to press against and the metal helps by making a step for the thumbscrew to rest against.
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Author: Ralph Katz
Date: 2002-06-28 22:36
A lot of pegs have flats or dimples machined in at regular intervals - these seem to stay in place pretty well,
My favorite solution is to use the lowly hose clamp. Get the smallest one that will fit around the peg - your hardware store or auto supply should have them.
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