 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: STuart
Date: 1999-06-21 16:03
what is the best oil for my keys? what is the best method for oiling my keys?
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Author: paul
Date: 1999-06-21 16:43
Keys require petroleum based key oil. I have never needed to oil my keys on any clarinet, including the student grade horn that I took out for marching band. However, don't let my few experiences slant your opinion of what's needed or not needed for your situation.
If you feel that you must oil your keys, be extremely careful to put the very slightest drop of key oil on the part where the key and the rod meet, or at other similar points on the rods that may need it.
At all times be very careful to not get the petroleum oil on the wood (or plastic) base of the clarinet. If you do, wipe it off immediately.
Remember, bore oil is for the bore of the clarinet and not for the keys. Key oil is for the keys and not for the bore. Here's why the two should never get confused (though they often are)...
Key oil is petroleum based. It's probably a very light oil like "baby" oil. However, because it's a very light petroleum oil, it can dissolve laquers and other wood coatings on a wooden clarinet.
Bore oil should be (note I said "should be") mostly vegetable based, such as sweet almond oil. This is used to lightly add to the coat of the existing laquers and other wood coatings without dissolving them. Commercial bore oils probably will have some petroleum solvents in them and there is a lot of controversy about the subject of whether to use bore oil or not. Bore oil may eventually clog up the metal key fittings on a horn. So, don't use bore oil on your keys.
Both oils can ruin a good set of clarinet pads, so use both of them properly and very sparingly.
If you are not used to doing this yourself, then I recommend letting a pro do it for you. A good way to make sure that your horn works properly and is oiled correctly is to take your horn to a certified woodwind maintenance technician and let him/her work on it for you. Chances are very good that if it's just a minor adjustment or a minor oiling job, the fee will be minimal and you might be able to get the service done while you wait at the store. For me, as an adult novice with a very expensive premium pro grade horn, I'll opt for the minor expense of letting a pro tech do any key oiling for me and I'll only get the keys oiled when I notice a problem with them.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-06-21 17:05
It may seem like heresy, but I add a few drops of motor oil to the regularly-sold key oils, so as to last longer! Don
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Author: Mario
Date: 1999-06-21 17:09
Standard or teflon-based synthetic? From a traditional oil Company (say Exxon) or from a speciality shop (such as Castroil)? Which grade? We are anxious to know...
:)
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-06-21 18:50
Yes, I worked for an oil co. Since ,as far as I know, the usual key oil is at least mainly petroleum-based [cheap as we all know!!] , I just add a few drops of 10W30 or 40, the common ones,which have small concentrations of viscosity improvers and detergents and stay away from the exotic oils and castor-bean oil additives. Paul's advice concerning oiling sparingly is on target, perhaps once or twice a year so as to prevent rusting of pivot screws and springs which do get exposed to moisture and when rusted-in are a real problem re: repair. Hope I satisfied the anxiety! Don
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Author: STuart
Date: 1999-06-21 21:56
Now, regarding my tenon corks. Can I use my oil to clean those as well? If it damges the wood, then no , right? But under a post from about a month ago it says a drop or two of light key oil. I want to start doing this, too. Will it help?
PS: How should I clean out my register key?
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Author: paul
Date: 1999-06-22 16:02
I don't have specific experience with aggressively removing excess tenon cork wax from key posts or the base of the horn by any chemical process. I have been removing any excess tenon cork wax from all parts of my clarinet with a dry facial tissue immediately after applying a coat of wax on the tenon corks. It works for me fairly well and I know it's a conservative solution to the problem. At least I won't be tearing up the horn or scratching it. Further, I'm minimizing the wax build-up problem as much as I can. As far as I can personally tell, the cork wax seems to dry up and evaporate from the corks to some extent, so I haven't had to worry about excess wax build-up on my tenon corks, at least as far as I can see and feel so far. Only time will tell, of course.
I've heard of folks regularly cleaning out their register key and the left thumb tone hole with a dry pipe cleaner. This appears to be a pretty good solution to the problem. From what I can tell, perhaps it's time for me to consider doing it or having it done on my horn.
Perhaps other folks can give you more helpful hints for these two items in future postings.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-06-22 18:10
I usually wipe the corks with cloth [old sheet-pillowcase material], but to make the corks look like new, for me , requires sandpapering [gently!]. Also I try to use only the harder [more viscous ] cork greases [sparingly] to minimize the deposition. Paul's [and Dee's] advice re: clean register holes is also very appropo! Don
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Author: Roger Harvey
Date: 1999-06-24 14:26
I find synthetic motor oil 5W-40 works best. It's a bit thicker than standard key oil, and it doesn't gum like ordinary petroleum oil.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-06-24 22:02
Having worked in our lube oil and petrochemical research, I must take a bit of umbrage re: gum from pet-based oils. The purpose, of course, of the additives is to minimize high-temp decomposition amd polymerization reactions in automotive engines [key lubrication is not quite that severe]. The synthetics are generally polyolefins, which chemically are very similar to the oils separated from crude oil by modern complex processes; please dont believe all the TV ads may tell you. [So much for my lecture!] Don
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Author: Stephen Howard
Date: 1999-06-26 11:53
I see a lot of over-oiled keywork in my workshop, mostly down to the unbiquitous bottle of 'key oil' found in most instrument cases!
A good key oil must prevent wear and tear, give a smooth and responsive action, and not be harmful to you or the instrument.
In general, hardwoods are tough beasties and will shrug off a little bit of key oil - but any seepage onto the wood will attract dirt, make a mess, and disolve solvent bases glues ( off come your key corks! ).
I've tried all sorts of oils, but for the last decade or so I've been using Castrol Hypoy EP80.
It's a vehicle gear oil. It's has excellent binding properties ( it doesn't migrate down the pillars ) it's heavy enough to provide good quietening, and it's fluid enough to ensure good response from the keys.
It's perfect basically.
I use it on all my own instruments too, and I find a six-monthly lubrication schedule is just fine.
Tip! Pour a little oil into a bottle top, and using a sewing needle apply a tiny drop wherever you need it. Work the key up and down, and from side to side if there's any free play, and wipe off the excess immediately.
As for cleaning tenon corks....
If you must you can use a 50/50 mix of peanut oil and methylated spirits on a thin strip of cloth. Be sure to finish up with pure peanut oil afterwards, and wipe off any excess.
For very heavy grime you can use neat lighter fluid - but you MUST finish with peanut oil afterwards.
Personally I would leave well alone, and go for preventative measures instead, i.e. use less grease and clean up afterwards!
Finally, instead of using commercial cork greases, which are inclined to be far too waxy, try pure Lanolin ( sheep's wool fat ).
Use sparingly and if necessary wipe the tenons before storing the instrument.
Be aware though, some folk are allergic to lanolin!
I hope this is of some use...
Stephen Howard
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-06-26 19:14
Excellent advice S H, you have pursued these "small"? practices far beyond most of us. I'll look into the "gear-lube" you suggest, [Castrol oils for autos are known for their shear-breakdown-resistive properties per C U]. I presume you use it as is, not as added to reg. key-oil as I have done, w: reg oils. Will look into the tenon cork cleaning also. Don
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