 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: na1965
Date: 2012-02-11 17:05
I recently purchased a Selmer compatible Backun barrel for my daughter's Selmer 10G. Unfortunately the tenon socket was larger than that of the stock barrel and the Backun barrel was quite loose. I had read that the problem could be corrected by building up the barrel's tenon socket with shellac or Crazy Glue. I used a transparent shellac purchased from a hardware store and applied several coats to the tenon socket, allowing each coat to dry between applications. I let the shellac dry overnight, and assembled my daughter's clarinet the next morning. The barrel was a perfect fit and I play tested the clarinet for about 10 minutes, pleased with the new barrel. When I disassembled the clarinet, the tenon cork on the upper joint that had been inserted in the shellac coated barrel socket completely crumbled and disintegrated into a powdery mess. I assume that the solvent base of the shellac I used caused this, as the cork had previously been in good condition. Is there an instrument specific shellac that I should have used? Needless to say, my next project is to replace the tenon cork!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2012-02-11 17:38
I'm pretty sure that the main way to address a loose barrel is to have thicker CORK reapplied to the top joint - so you've gotten to that point in the end. Never heard of the shellac thing...... What is this book you have that says this?
................Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: rtmyth
Date: 2012-02-11 18:56
Cork. Never touch the barrel inner surface with shellac or anything else.
richard smith
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Alseg
Date: 2012-02-11 19:12
na1965 contact me offline for info re shellac and another way to address the problem.
The variation in Selmer tenons/sockets is something custom barrel makers address routinely.
Alternatively, ask the manufacturer of this particular barrel.
dislaimer......I make and sell barrels.
Former creator of CUSTOM CLARINET TUNING BARRELS by DR. ALLAN SEGAL
-Where the Sound Matters Most(tm)-
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: na1965
Date: 2012-02-11 20:33
Thank you for the responses so far. I was trying to avoid replacing the upper tenon cork with thicker cork so the stock barrel could still be used. Unfortunately that plan did not work, so I will be replacing the cork. In order to use the stock barrel, I suppose I'll have to sand the socket a bit.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: John Peacock
Date: 2012-02-11 21:52
I just dealt with this problem, although it was at the mouthpiece end, rather than the tenon end. In this case, recorking is not an acceptable solution: you need to keep the cork on your mouthpiece at a standard thickness so it can be swapped between different instruments. I used superglue (cyanoacrilate). As has
been discussed on this board, this glue grips really well to blackwood and is the main way to mend cracks (somewhat to my surprise, since I expected blackwood would be naturally a bit oily, which would stop the glue adhering). I sanded the inside of the socket lightly with fine paper, just to remove surface grease, and applied a thin layer of superglue - just using the nozzle of the glue to spread it
uniformly. You need to hold the barrel horizontally and rotate it slowly for a minute until the glue dries a bit, otherwise it will pool. Then it's ready to go. If the socket is massively oversize, it's best to glue in a strip of some suitable material; I've successfully used the thin black plastic pots that plants are sold in at garden centres.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2012-02-12 06:39
For many years now, when repairing peoples horns I use Contact Cement. First you cut the cork to it's proper length and width. I use a pen and a ruler to cut the perfect lenth and width. Then you put the Cement, very carefully on the clean joint where the cork came off and don't overlap the Cement or put it on too thick. Make sure the joint is clean. Now put the Contact Cement underneath'bottom, the inside part of the cork. I like using exacto knives or razer blades. I like blades better.
So you now have glue on the clarinet joint and the the glue on the cork. Wait for about 15 minutes and carefully put the cork on the joint. Cut off the overlaping cork and sand smoothly. If you have to take off a lot of cork in order for the barrel to fit perhaps use a file, then a thin piece of 320 paper to 400 grade paper. You are good to go. The bad thing about the Contact Cement is it doesn't last very long and gets too thick and gummy. It's horrible to use, so go out and buy another tube or bottle. $4.50 is so well worth it. When you apply it use rubber gloves and perhaps break an old reed so you can apply the glue carefully. Almost always the glue will get on your hands and it's hard to get it off; thus the need for gloves and an easy cleanup job. For sand paper I sometimes use those ladies sand paper thats on those popsicyle (spelling?) stickes. Works great!
If the cork is dried out and breaks, dip it in water for 10 minutes the night before and let it dry overnight. It should be pliable and work very well. You can soak it a bit longer if you wish., 20 minutes is OK. An hour probably isn't a goo idea, because it may not be dry enough the next day. If you forget about it and it's left overnight, no worries, just weight another day to dry.
You can get this Contact Cement at any hardware store such as Home Depot, Lowes, whatever wherever. Make sure you don't get Rubber Cement. That makes a huge mess. and you will want to send it out for repair!
From 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest type of repair, this is probably a 4, because of the proper tools and glue. Once you've done this one time it's about a 2.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
Post Edited (2012-02-12 06:52)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2012-02-12 17:15
I had this problem once way back when. I added a little piece of masking tape to the inside of the barrel tendon, greased it and it worked very well. Just enough to make the barrel secure so you may have to experiment a few times with different size pieces depending on how loose it is. To much will make it too tight and bunch up or rip off. You'll be surprised how long it will stay on the inside of the barrel if you don't force it on. If ever you want to remove it it's easy enough to "scrape" out. ESP eddiesclarinet.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2012-02-15 16:20
I've got a piece of Post-It wrapped around my mouthpiece these days. Its cork got compressed by my new Lyrique's barrel before I opened up that barrel.
Bob Phillips
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chefmao
Date: 2012-02-17 00:00
I was able to get a longer barrel to help get me more in tune...and it was larger than the original barrel. being reluctant to replace the cork for the same reason--not being able to use the original barrel should I need it--so far I've just wrapped some waxed dental floss (the wide tape type) on the cork. It works very well. I just have to remember when putting the barrel on or taking it off, to twist in the direction I wrapped the floss to help keep it in place. For now, I'll keep this solution so if I ever have a need to use the original barrel, I can just unwrap the floss.
Eventually I figure if I find I never need the original barrel, I may just go ahead and recork the tenon. Any reason I shouldn't do this? I couldn't think of any long-term problem the floss could create...
Jeff
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2012-02-17 18:58
Jeff, you could always get the socket of the original barrel skimmed slightly to the same size as your long barrel, then interchanging would not be a problem.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BobD
Date: 2012-02-17 21:21
I just got done removing a thin rosin coating from the mouthpiece end socket of a wood barrel.
Bob Draznik
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
