 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Ashley91489
Date: 2006-12-08 23:53
Lately I've been having a problem with my floor peg. Sometimes it will absolutely not tighten at all and the ped just slides right out. The turn screw itself tightens but it is not holding anything because the peg comes out just like I didn't tighten it at all.
And sometimes it seems to work just fine but when I go to loosen the screw to take the peg off, it won't budge and I have to use a pair of pliers to get it loose.
Any idea of how to fix these problems? The second, while very inconvenient, I can deal with but the first problem really complicates things (and I much prefer using a peg to a neckstrap)
Solutions to this would be much appreciated, temporary fixes are nice but I would really like to fix the problem and not have to worry about it anymore.
Post Edited (2006-12-09 00:01)
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Author: jcfasanar
Date: 2006-12-09 01:18
I also had that problem.
You must indent the peg with blows with
some metallic tool. The marks in the peg prevent that it slips.
It works for me
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Author: BassetHorn
Date: 2006-12-09 03:59
the problem you described is quite common, and very irritating.
What I do is, go to home hardware store and find some rubber tubing with inside diameter just a little smaller than that of the peg, then I cut out a piece of this rubber tubing about 1 inch long and insert the peg into this piece of rubber tubing to the point where the peg normally goes into the bass clarinet socket. Then I put the peg on with the point of rubber tubing right up against the metal peg receiver. So this rubber tubing, due to its size and tightness, stays in the spot and won't slip, and even with the metal socket resting on this rubber tubing it offers sufficient friction that the peg stays firmly in place.
not sure if this description is any useful.
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Author: EuGeneSee
Date: 2006-12-09 05:06
I fixed that problem on my bass clarinet by drilling several small holes about 1/2" apart through the peg rod, then I put a small one of those "bobby pin" looking wire clips through the hole. I don't know what you call those clips, but almost all hardware stores have them (larger ones are commonly used to hold the release lever down on a trailer hitch to keep it locked to the ball).
I had a problem figuring out how to drill the holes in the round rod until my sister (!!) showed me how simple that was. She got a hex nut that would just slip over the rod, put it in her vise with a flat side facing upward, made a little dent in that flat side with a hammer and the corner of a chisel (she didn't have a center punch to do that), then drilled a small hole (using the dent as a guide to keep the drill from "walking" all over the place) all the way through the nut. Then, (keeping the nut in the vise) I pushed the peg rod through the nut and, using the small hole my sis had drilled as a drill guide, I drilled the holes where I had marked the rod. Duh . . . why didn't I think of that!
I eventually got over my embarrasement about being taught a common mechanic's trick by my sister, and now have a rod that stays in place. I also put one of those clips in a hole above the peg mount just so the peg doesn't slip out if I lift the BC to move it about, only to discover the hard way that the locking screw had vibrated loose. It works great and is not noticeable by anyone.
Eu
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-09 12:58
If you have access to a lathe (or know someone that has), turn some shallow grooves in the peg so the screw will lock into them (around 0.5 to 1mm max. narrower than the diameter of the peg - so if the peg is 7mm, make sure the narrowest part of the groove is no less than 6mm otherwise you could compromise the stability, or at worst weaken the peg enough causing it to bend or break) - at least with this way there will be grooves all around the floor peg so getting it lined up with the locking screw isn't critical.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2006-12-09 13:38
It's simply bad design on Buffet's part.
I do exactly what BassetHorn does. I went to a surgical supply store and got about 3 feet of silicone surgical tubing. You cut about 3/4" off, put a drop or two of water or saliva inside and slide it over the "ears" of the tightening screw. The advantage of silicone is that it doesn't deteriorate like rubber does. (It also works great on clarinet thumb rests.)
Another solution is to wind a couple of wide rubber bands around the tightening screw, which gives you a better grip and also makes the screw wider, which creates more torque.
Ken Shaw
Post Edited (2006-12-09 13:39)
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Author: Arnoldstang
Date: 2006-12-09 13:49
Now the ridiculous.....When I attempt to play bass on my Bundy I always carry a pair of pliers and reef on the round nurled knob. This does the job...I would estimate that many of you with expensive intruments would not like this method. John
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-12-09 13:52
Fortunately my Buffet floor peg is the same design as the Selmer one which grips the floor peg rather than having the screw tightening into it making only a small point of contact. Though I do know of a Buffet bass player that has roughened up the floor peg on his so it doesn't slip.
If mine does start slipping, then I'll probably turn a few shallow grooves in it at 10mm-15mm intervals.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2006-12-09 14:03
Much good advice above. For the "tightening" screw, ala Ken, I put a slightly smaller O-Ring on it for "grip". Also I found some rubber "washers" [small holes], and as B H said, use one for "height" selection and perhaps one for "fall-out" protection. My problems solved. Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2006-12-09 15:01
FYI, whenever I 'build' a bass clarinet for a customer who requests a floor peg, I order the Leblanc floor peg assembly (from Ferree's Tools) as I've found this design to be very secure -- I've never experienced one slipping, but I suppose we'll have to wait a few years when these start getting worn to find out how they hold up over time.
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Author: Ashley91489
Date: 2006-12-09 19:56
Thank you all for the great advice! I will look into these ideas...Also, if I took it to an instrument repair shop, do you think they would be able to fix this problem?
Thanks!
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2006-12-09 20:30
Certainly any repair shop could find out why the peg won't tighten at all, and show you what to do about it.
You can easily put a rubber band around a round tightening screw, or around the "ears" of that kind.
If your tightening screw has a pointed end, any shop could put some corresponding indentations in the peg.
If nothing else works, a repair shop could silver-solder a small piece of metal on the side of the peg, keep the instrument at a particular height. The problem is that you then always have to have the same height chair.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-12-09 23:13
"Also, if I took it to an instrument repair shop, do you think they would be able to fix this problem?"
It sounds as if the threads (female, and possibly male also) are jamming because they are a loose fit and partialkly stripped. This stripping is also common on collapsible music stands, when the female thread is too short, &/or the metal (male &/or female) is too soft, &/or the threads are poorly formed.
A solution could be to silver-solder additional material to the female part, including filling the current threads, and re-thread it.
Without seeing it, this may be relatively straight-forward, or more expensive than fitting a new, WELL-made mounting.
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