 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: rombilou
Date: 2006-11-15 18:58
Dear BBoard,
Here I come with my tiny little problem, hoping that somebody will help me...
There's a piece of felt on clarinets, on the "correspondance" (I don't know if you call it like this in english). Well, mine fell off. Do you have any idea of what kind of glue I can use to glue it back on again? If possible, I'd like to use a kind of glue I can buy anywhere asap...
Thanks a lot,
Rom.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-11-15 19:56
Any impact adhesive will work - the kind you'd use to stick formica onto chipboard with. I don't know if you have Evo-Stik in Canada, but anything similar to this will be fine which you can find in any hardware store - ask a member of staff as they ought to know what you need and how to use it.
Take the key off, clean off ALL the old adhesive from the key and degrease the bare metal, then apply a thin, even coating of adhesive to BOTH the key and the gluey side of the piece of felt that fell off (provided it isn't contaminated with oil) using an old clarinet reed as a glue spreader, then leave them to go off for a few minutes for the glue to dry (it should feel tacky when touched, and not sticky) and then line up the felt and stick it on pressing it firmly so the glue bonds.
Oil the screws as you put them back in the key barrels and check the regulation.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: rombilou
Date: 2006-11-15 20:27
Chris, thanks a lot for your quick answer! There's a hardware store not far away at all, I'm going to see there!
Best,
Rom.
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2006-11-16 15:11
Duco cement works well. You don't need anything stronger.
Don't use cyanoacrylate (Krazy Glue), which is difficult for a repair shop to remove.
Repair shops usually have sheets of felt prepared with a coating on the bottom, which they cut to shape and stick on with melted shellac.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-11-16 15:24
Shellac isn't ideal to glue felt and cork on with as it's too brittle, and can fall off easily - if you've worked on a B12 or E11 clarinets the chances are all the corks and felts will fall off with the slightest touch, so doubling the time it takes to service them as all key corks and felts need replacing.
So an impact adhesive (such as Evo-Stik) is best for this due to it's flexibility - though do use it in a well ventilated room as it contains a solvent (toluene).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2006-11-16 15:39
I gather that "imact adhesive" is the same as "contact adhesive", right? (you apply it on both parts, let dry and assemble)
FWIW I never had problems with cyanoacrylate - it's easy enough to scrape the residue from metal.
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-11-16 15:55
Contact adhesive is superglue (cyanoacrylate) from what I've been told as it bonds on contact, whereas with impact adhesive (Evo-Stik, etc.) you need both surfaces to be coated with it in order for it to bond (on contact) to itself.
And superglue (Cyrano-de-Bergerac) is easy to remove from metal, but not so easy to remove from lacquered brass or wood.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2006-11-16 16:08
Chris,
here the term "contact adhesive" is used where you are using "impact adhesive". Cyanoacrylate is sold as "Sekundenkleber" (ie "Second glue") here.
I've read that "impact" vs "contact" cement was an AE vs BE issue.
--
Ben
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2006-11-17 10:04
"impact" = "contact" glue. It is a type of rubber, dissolved in something that dissolves rubber, often a concoction including toluene. It is the type of glue that glue-sniffers fry their brains with.
Personally, I've only seen it called "impact" by the brand Evostik, which is fantastic, BTW.
Yes you coat both surfaces, wait until tacky (no longer liquid, and only slight stickiness remaining), then press ("contact") the parts together. They adhere immediately, and you can't adjust the position afterwards.
"Contact" glue was called that many years before superglue was invented. Superglue is not "contact" glue. (I use dilute PVA as a contact glue when gluing paper to cardboard, to avoid a wrinkled finish.)
Ken wrote, "Repair shops usually have sheets of felt prepared with a coating on the bottom, which they cut to shape and stick on with melted shellac."
Very few repair shops still use shellac in this way. Contact glue is easier and very reliable.
I seal the surface of a sheet of felt first by applying "thixotropic" contact glue and letting it set first. This type has a consistency of margarine, so it does not soak into the felt. After it has set, standard contact glue does not soak into the felt and wreck its characteristics.
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