 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: coasten1
Date: 2003-10-15 16:47
I have read many posts with the mention of mouthpiece refacing. I understand the purpose of refacing, but I am curious about the process of refacing. How is it done? What materials are used?
Thanks
Tony
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Author: hans
Date: 2003-10-16 12:13
I think that this is a very good question and look forward to enlightenment; e.g., since some mouthpiece materials deform when they get too warm, how is this prevented?
Hans
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2003-10-16 13:56
According to a panel of expert makers, a mouthpiece needs retouching after about a year of regular use. See http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=91027&t=90909 .
The rails wear from the beating of the reed against them and the edges become rounded. Refacing trues them up and removes any unevenness. However, it's not a simple process, since taking down the rails reduces the interior volume of the mouthpiece, and thus the baffle often has to be adjusted.
Refacing is usually done on fine sandpaper (600 grit) over plate glass or a fine knife sharpening stone.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Synonymous Botch
Date: 2003-10-17 19:32
I think that the mileage on a hard rubber mouthpiece is dependent more on 'driving habits' than the calendar.
If it plays well, why widdle widdit?
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2003-10-17 20:05
Syn -
Because the change is so slow you don't notice it. Things gradually get harder and harder to do, and you wonder why.
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Author: Burt
Date: 2003-10-18 00:20
That's good to know. I always thought it was because I was getting old.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2003-10-18 14:26
However you do any refacing, do it carefully and slowly with testing, IMHO. If Dave S et al will divulge their secrets, we will all profit, then prob. experiment and ruin a few, thats my experience! I seldom work on a presently-good, costly mp , unless it is scarred [recoverably]. Then on fine abrasive [SiC - emery] paper-cloth, 400 mesh or greater [6,8,1200] on a very flat surface, I give it a careful, even-pressured "draw stroke" or two and then observe how flat the table is, and where the "curve" breaks away from the table. Often that is all that I need to help an unplayable. That of course will slightly reduce the tip opening and the length of the curve, so the brave may go further "tinkering" with the curve without [or with] measuring "tools". There are some experts at www.mouthpiecework@yahoogroups,com who seem to work more on sax mps than cls, who exchange tips and comments worth reading. Oh, yes after I've done my damage, I like to "polish" the surfaces on newspaper a number of strokes. I'll be happy to read all comments on my home-developed-remedy "technique", likely not patentable!! Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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