 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: gerry
Date: 2003-10-09 00:41
Does anyone know where I can buy some cork material to replace the cork on a mouthpiece or the tenon joints. I once had a Clarinet Repair Kit from Micro which contained Pads, Springs, Cork & Adhesive. All I need is some Cork and the Adhesive.
Thanks for your help,
Gerry.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-10-09 11:22
There are several suppliers to the trade such as Ferrees, some supplying only to technicians.
MusicMedic is a relative newcomer, seeming to specialize in helpful and prompt service, and high quality product, for do-it-yourselfers.
http://www.musicmedic.com/
Use the natrural ('treated' or 'filled') cork for tenons. The TechCork is very suitable for some other locations, such as linkages, and certain keys.
Or if you wish to go to the Portugese source, email Eduardo Macedos:
eduardomacedo@mail.telepac.pt
For speed and easy communication I suggest MusicMedic.
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2003-10-09 13:41
The repair shop at your local music store might be willing to sell you enough cork for the job. Also, besides the sources mentioned above, I have seen it advertised in at least some of the mail order catalogs (Woodwind and Brasswind comes to mind). The adhesive you want, contact cement, is available inexpensively at most hardware stores.
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2003-10-09 20:22
I use and suggest "Super Glue" brand contact cement. I make no money or brownie points by suggesting this stuff; it's just very good.
It uses methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) as the volatile agent -- the stuff that evaporates, resulting in rather solid adhesive action. Some adhesives (such as "rubber cement") use heptane or other straight-chain hydrocarbons; these are almost always *not* as strongly adhesive.
Woodwind and Brasswind also sells (or at least did in the past) some pre-stickied cork for tenon and other repair. Peel off the backing, stick it on, and trim it. I have never used it but assume it would be better than nothing. Perhaps I'm wrong.
Regards,
John
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Author: ron b
Date: 2003-10-09 20:56
John McA,
I've tried the peel-and-stick stuff (Allied's). It's okay in a pinch, but barely better than nothing in the long run. You can't make an overlap with it, as you can with cork, or make a tight butt join either.
I heartily agree with you that regular cork (Ferree's) and *Super Glue* [brand name] Contact Cement is better, even easier to use, than anything else I've ever 'experimented' with.
If I may, I'd like to re-emphasize your recommendation to use M.E.K. =ONLY and EXCLUSIVELY= to thin your (S.G.) contact cement. The regular 'thinner' they sell is okay for 'clean-up', but will instantly spoil the adhesive properties if you use it to THIN contact cement.
- r![[cool]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/cool.gif) n b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-10-10 04:04
After trying many, the best glue I have used for cork is Evostik, made by the largest UK adhesives manufacturer. It comes in a particularly useful, very small-nozzled tube. It seems unavailable in USA. It is toluene based, and ready to stick together about 1 minute after application.. When set it is resistant to soaking in oil, water, cork grease, acetone, lighter fluid, ......
Tenons are not so demanding, but key corks need a glue that resists cleaners, and does not allow slithering off the key when very small areas are glued.
Ferrees contact glue is in a very clumsy container.
I have not tried *Super Glue*Contact Cement.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2003-10-10 04:37
ron b: Thanks for the info on the "peel-and-stick" cork. We are in thorough agreement on the thinner. By the way, the SG brand contact cement also contains a bit of hexane and ethyl acetate as volatiles, but the MEK is certainly predominant and appears to be quite effective (also inexpensive) to "rejuvenate" any adhesive that has become too thick. .
Gordon: While it is available in larger containers, my preference is "Super Glue" contact cement in the 88 mL bottle (3 US fluid ounces). There is a convenient captive brush under the bottle lid.
I have never seen Evostik, hence I've not tried it.
Sending you a bottle of the Super Glue cement for trial would be my pleasure, but I'm not at all sure how it could be shipped (labeled "DANGER: EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE."). I will look into this, though.
Regards,
John
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Author: ron b
Date: 2003-10-10 05:34
John,
The peel and stick tenon material (from Allied) is not cork, it's a rubbery (plastic?) material that will stretch to some extent - it just doesn't behave like cork at all. I find, as do many other BBers, that teflon tape is better for quick fixes. So, maybe what I'm referring to isn't the same thing you have in mind.
The last Super Glue contact cement I bought had a flexible plastic spatula instead of the cap brush. I had an empty Ferree's glue can so I've been using that "clumsy container" for Super Glue cement for a couple of months. In the USA, Ferree's has to send all flammables via ground carrier (usually United Parcel Service).
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This is the first I've ever heard of Evostick, Gordon. Thank you for sharing that information. Sure sounds like the ideal stuff we've all been looking for. Maybe it isn't available in North America - at least I've never seen or heard of it until now. Of course, I don't know everything... yet 
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- ron b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-10-10 09:22
Super glue brand is possibly available here. What is the official name of the manufacturer?
Apart from here in NZ, Evostik seems to be a highly favoured glue in Switzerland, and in UK.
Shipping volatile adhesives can be troublesome and expensive.
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Author: Henry
Date: 2003-10-10 13:47
I believe that the use of toluene, as well as benzene, is severely restricted in the US, particularly in consumer products, because of its suspected carcinogenicity. That may explain the absence (?) of "Evostik" on the American market. Isn't that right, Doc?
Henry
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Author: BobD
Date: 2003-10-10 19:10
Some of the above terminology might be confusing to some. In my experience "contact cement" is the product traditionally used for applying "formica" to kitchen counter tops. Brand name "DAP" Weldwood is a popular one over here in the U.S. It is extremely flammable. I use it for glueing tenon cork. Instant glues such as "Super Glue", Krazy Glue, and Hot Stuff "grab" on contact but I'm not comfortable with calling them contact cements. These glues fall under the general term "cyanoacrylates" and the primary hazard is keeping them away from your eyes since they will bond skin....and are even used in some surgical operations. They are also commonly used with grenadilla dust to fill holes in wood clarinets. I have not used them for tenon corks or pads as they are too fast for me. Being an amateur I have more time than pros and so I use 1/32 inch thick automotive gasket sheet cork for tenons and then "take it down" either on a lathe or by hand. There is quite a bit of variability in this procuct and so not every roll you buy will work well for tenons. But it's so cheap you can't go wrong even if you only get one good one out of three.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-10-11 09:39
Henry, I think there is toluene in many (most?) common (true) contact adhesives. I think it is the main active ingredient that the glue sniffers seek.
Toluene is probably also in your vehicle fuel.
BobD, I don't I use cyanoacrylate glue for corks because it takes too LONG!
Is that "Super Glue" brand 'contact' glue actually CyanoAcrylate?
For cork I would have to use the gel version of CA, apply it, and then hold the cork on the key for 10 seconds or more.
Wen repairing I am doing several things at once.... I apply the true contact glue, leave it for a minute or two WHILE I DO OTHER THINGS, and then spend only 0.3 seconds pressing the cork to the key... a little longer to get it around a tenon.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2003-10-11 15:11
Gordon: "Super Glue" may be the name of a CA type adhesive. My memory may be hazy but I was thinking that was so. "Superglue" was a term I and associates in the lab used for the CA adhesives when they first became available. I am not positive that a product named "Super Glue" is marketed these days, but "Krazy Glue" is. Your procedure for using contact cement sounds similar to mine.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2003-10-11 16:42
The confusion arises because of common names and brand names. The Super Glue Corporation makes both cyanoacrylate adhesive (commonly called "super glue" by a large percentage of the general public and others -- it's a similar product to "Krazy Glue" or Eastman 910) as well as an excellent contact cement, which is simply called "Super Glue Contact Cement." The only connection between the two is the producer, not the chemistry. There is, so far as the labeling advises, no toluene in the Super Glue brand contact cement. As written before, the volatiles in Super Glue brand contact cement are MEK, hexane, and ethyl acetate.
I agree with Gordon. Cyanoacrylate adhesive would not be satisfactory for applying cork.
And "Weldwood" may be wonderful for applying countertops and other veneers, but I wouldn't put it on a Clarinet.
Regards,
John
Post Edited (2003-10-12 03:45)
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Author: ron b
Date: 2003-10-11 17:01
I'd like to emphasize too that Super Glue brand CONTACT CEMENT shoud NOT be confused in any way with the Krazy Glue type stuff. NO, NO, NO - not the same at all.
- ron b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-10-12 11:35
Are we talking about:
http://www.pacertech.com/sg2.11.htm
also http://www.pacertechnology.com/sg2.11.htm
MSDS sheet: http://www.pacertech.com/msds%5CContact%20Cement%20%20%20%282002%29.doc
BTW, this is the Evostik Impact Glue:
http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/store/browse.php3?section=5457&level=4
I use the small tubes, which have a 2 mm I.D. nozzle, which I reduce to 1 mm with a teflon insert. I never use the black lid/spreader. A finger spreads glue far better than anything else!
Any excess easily comes off by rubbing the finger in the palm of the other hand.
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Author: gerry
Date: 2003-10-12 22:13
Thanks for all the infor. I will follow this up. Also will try the cork gasket material from the Automotive stores.
Thanks againm
Gerry.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-10-13 00:07
Gasket cork is a very poor substitute for tenons. It is too hard - not enough 'give'. It is used only on the very cheapest of instruments.
Post Edited (2003-10-13 00:08)
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