 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Bb
Date: 2002-04-07 00:47
Ok, In every reed I have, I need to place it a couple of millimeters over the tip of the mp in order for it to sound good(It sounds ugly if I don't). Do I need a reed trimmer?? About how much does it cost??
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: FT
Date: 2002-04-07 02:54
No, the strenght's fine(I use a 4.5, how much harder can it get??)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Arney
Date: 2002-04-07 04:29
If you are content to continue the search for the "perfect" reed in each box of "Supreme Whatevers", then--NO! But if you wish to buy reeds in bigger lots, in various strengths and then adjust them to suit your own tone and preferences, rather than those of the little guy who puts one good one in each box, I would say YES--And also buy a good reed knife. One of Sneezy's sponsors (Discount Reeds) has both in stock.
Bob A
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob T
Date: 2002-04-07 09:52
Have you tried out other mouthpieces - if this is a consistent reed position you might find the reed position on a different (poss better ?) m/p would be less likely to sustain accidental damage. After all its the m-p/reed combo that's important not just reed strength.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: William
Date: 2002-04-07 16:06
For many years, it has been my practice to start out with reeds that are at least one strength too hard and work then down to playing condition with my reed knife, balancing the sides and softening the tip area if needed. I have both Cordier and VanDoren reed trimmeners but hav'nt used them since I learned to use the knife. And since I purchased and started using the Reed Wizard, I can usually harvest three to four "excellant" reeds from every box of ten V-13 4.0s and make the others playable for rehearsal or practice. My vote is for using slightly harder reeds and forgetting about the reed trimmer. Learn to use a knife instead. And, the fact that you are already using 4.5 reeds (brand--???) suggests that your mpc facing may be very "close" and that you could very well advance upward to use 5.0 or 5+. Reed strength is not absoulute and is directly proportional to the tip opening of your mouthpiece. Very open = soft reeds (2.0 to 3.5) Very close = hard reeds (4.0 to 5+) You have to find the strength that you are comfortable with through trial and error and by conditioning with your knife. Hope this helps, other opinions will probably vary, but that is the strength of this website, you get a lot of information and find out what works for you. Good Clarineting!!!!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-04-07 16:08
I have reed trimmers for Bb cl, alto and tenor saxes, and generally buy reeds a 1/2 strength softer than what I [believe] I will want for what music I will be playing. I routinely "polish" the BACK of the reeds [dry] on fine emery [SiC] cloth [sandpaper], soak, then play for some time, before trimming to the hardness I desire. Its just the way I've developed over a lifetime of single reed playing, to each his own. Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bb
Date: 2002-04-07 18:19
I use a V12 (4.5) and my mp is a Vandoren M13 (I think the tip opening is 100.5)(??)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Arney
Date: 2002-04-07 21:38
Don, what's with the '"polish" the back of the reed'? By back do you mean the hump-back or the flat side? Is this a "reed fetish" or does it help to stabalize the reed fibers? Thanks for a non-sarcastic answer (like from Dave) suggesting I don't know my back-side from--whatever!8;]
Bob A
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-04-07 22:50
Hi Bob - Perhaps I should have said "sand the flat back of the reed", with fine emery-paper. I thot this was a well known procedure , maybe to sealthe reed, but also to insure that there is no air leakage down the reed-table interface. It was taught to me years ago, using a small plate of glass and 600+ mesh paper as the [or a] way to soften a reed without working on the scrape, I got my fill of that trying to make playable oboe reeds!! As with trying to "touch-up" the table and lay of a mouthpiece, one needs to be quite careful. Perhaps JB and/or DS will add to my NON-sarcastic [I hope] non-scientific answer. Regards, Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Arney
Date: 2002-04-08 02:32
Thanks Don, that's what I thought, but am too new at "reed play" that I was not sure. (Bought a batch of OLD reeds I can play with).
Bob A
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: beejay
Date: 2002-04-08 13:51
Polishing the back of reeds? IK find ordinary typing paper works just as well.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob
Date: 2002-04-08 14:25
Ah yes, another reed preparation chain. No,I'm not being sarcastic. I thoroughly enjoy all the tips and tricks that members come up with. I just spent the weekend crafting a reed case and finished it with tung oil. After I got it done I thought that maybe I'd try rubbing new reeds on the top of it as I wasn't exactly turned on by the suggested use of nose and eyelid oils in a prior entry. Maybe there is something to the old suggestion to dry reeds after playing by squeezing them gently between one's fingers.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2002-04-08 18:33
Bb -
The simple answer is yes. You do need a reed trimmer. It's part of your reed adjusting equipment. Even if you start with hard reeds and work them down, it's easy to go a little too far and need to "clip it up" a strength. You also need it to trim off a chipped area on the tip (and then work the reed down to playable strength again).
In my opinion, the Courdier brand is the best. They go for about $35, but you have to have it.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-04-08 22:59
Thank you, Ken, I agree with all. Yes, I provide a chipped-tip-removal service for those nice young beginners who always need help, in addition to my own reed-strengthening [sp?] . Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Sandra F. H.
Date: 2002-04-09 01:33
I've been on both sides of the fence. I own a Courdier trimmer, a good one if you like to trim reeds. I also own an oboe knife, which I'd rather use on too-strong reeds and shave to an appropriate personal strength. I dislike using reed rush and sandpaper, although I've used both. I can shave reeds with the knife wet or dry. I stopped clipping several years ago. It's just easier for me. Good luck!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: David Spiegelthal
Date: 2002-04-10 16:59
In case Bob A hasn't gotten his fill of sarcasm yet.......
I buy #27 reeds by the boxcar lot (and believe me, it's a bear getting that boxcar to cross the ocean from France to the U.S.), then I work them with a chainsaw if they're too soft, or a bench grinder if they're too hard.
Happy April Fool's day (a week or so late) y'all!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Arney
Date: 2002-04-10 21:13
Missed yah! Dave. Hope you have been too busy to post. What has ever happened to Peter P...? Has he departed the BB net?? Banned by the mighty "C"?
Bob A
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
