 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Bill
Date: 2001-11-19 15:24
I have an older Marigaux clarinet with major damage in the socket and first tone-hole of the lower (right-hand) joint. The socket wall has two (or three) cracks. In addition, the top tone-hole of the joint (B natural/F sharp) was damaged such that wood was lost from the top surface of the tone-hole chimney---the tone-hole would have to be built back up. Don't laugh (too hard!), but I made a temporary repair using a mixture of Elmer's glue and very fine blackwood shavings. It restored a lot of the compression.
Despite the damage and the crude repair, this is a fine-sounding clarinet. I'm assuming most repair techs would refuse to work on it, but I thought it was worth it to get some feedback. The remainder of the clarinet is in very good shape. --Bill.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2001-11-19 16:15
Bill, if Gordon (NZ) can repair a Haynes flute that was run over, surely a bit of damaged wood shouldnn't be a drawback. To me, "*Can* this clarinet be saved?" isn't the question. Of course it can. Is it worth the effort? That's something only you can decide.
I bought a Vito Resonite instrument a number of years ago, intending to repair it. I still have this beast on hand, never having been able to convince myself that putting a lot of effort into gluing each joint back together would make a whole lot of sense. [Perhaps we could surmise that the former owner became overly agitated, having checked every reed in a new box of Vandorens and finding none to meet his standards. Maybe? Who knows.] This is the only instrument I have ever, in the long run, decided not to try fixing.
With your Marigaux, it appears that aside from enjoying the item, you have taken the first step toward personal involvement: you've already effected a temporary "fix." My suggestion would be to keep working on it yourself, knowing that a moderate amount of effort on your part is likely to yield positive resuts. And if it doen't become better, well, your alternative was going to be what? To me, this is sort of like an "inoperable" tumor. Hey, what might happen if something goes wrong, I could die in surgery? Well, I was gonna die anyway, right?
My vote: do the surgery. Regards, John
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Author: Bill
Date: 2001-11-19 16:46
Thanks, John. The damaged tone-hole, of course, is the "B-flat/F." I've done everything I can do myself---it now must be handed off to a tech (who will have to pick out all my glue/wood shavings just to access the damage!) or abandoned. I did get a positive response from a tech shop/person named "Albert Alphin" in MA. So I may break a few piggy banks and have this one worked on. I can't describe how nicely it plays---sort of like the sound of a Buffet but with the ease of an older Selmer. Repaired, I think it could be incredible. --Bill.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2001-11-19 16:53
Of Course, if its minor on a "not-very-good-one" , but even major on a good oldie, which sounds like what you have. I recently put in a few hours on a mediocre plastic with an "across-horn" post-to-post crack!! Its back in service with "treat with care" warning, may survive with TLC. I had a favorite repairer rebuild an old but good 19/7 wood Pruefer , a bit costly but playable [beyond my capabilities] for nostalgia and display . Its a learning experience isn't it? Don
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Author: Bill
Date: 2001-11-19 20:40
Thanks so much for the input and encouragment!!! This one will soon be off to the shop. Thanks! --Bill.
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Author: Fred
Date: 2001-11-19 23:50
Bill, this probably isn't a repair you want a clarinet apprentice to attempt. Make sure you get with a great clarinet technician. This isn't just a pad job, and it costs very little more (if any) to deal with a pro rather than just whoever is the least busy.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-11-20 09:03
I agree with David.
Using grenadilla dust and superglue (or epoxy) - maybe with black paint powder pigment as well, can also be quite successful to build up chipped parts. When in doubt I have inserted fine stainless steel pins in much the same process as a dentist would with a broken tooth.
The splits in the socket probably cannot be pinned on account of the thin timber here. The offending section can be cut off and a complete new section be grafted in.
A cheaper but visually-inferior fix could be to turn the split section down a little on a lathe and sleeve the whole area with a metal tube, perhaps silver.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-11-20 09:04
I also agree with Fred. It needs a well above average and well-equipped technican to tackle this sort of work effectively and efficiently.
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Author: drew
Date: 2001-11-20 16:24
Hi Bill,
I'm not an instrument repair technician, but I can assure you that vitually any problem with your instrument can be corrected, it is only a function of time and money.
Tonehole problems are typically adressed via a replacement insert, the tonehole is drilled out to accept the insert which is glued into place. I had an old Yamaha YCL-61 repaired this way, it came through as good as new.
The cracked tenon is a bit trickier, but achievable.
Most techs I've contacted relish the challange of a more difficult repair; those who aren't capable of such advanced surgury will generally opt out.
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Author: Bob Arney
Date: 2001-11-20 23:50
Bill, I think you have now reached the stage wherre your subject question must be reconsidered. Instead of "Can", substitute "Should."
You have heard that it can be saved. Now face up to the should.
Good tone (so you said)
Ease of play (old memory say's yes)
Cost of repairs (within reason or.....?)
Purpose???
Now it's "fish or cut bait" time Bill. Your choice.
Bob A
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Author: Bill
Date: 2001-11-21 14:41
Bob, it's en route to Needham, MA, to "Albert Alphin Wind Instruments" at this very moment. We'll see what the e$timate is. Thanks! --Bill.
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