 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: stuart
Date: 1999-05-17 21:01
I've run out of money but my bass remains neglected. It's an old buffet similar to the one Moses used. I tried to have Bill Brannen take a look at it (I used to live near his shop) but he didn't want to.
Anyway, I've secided to conquer my fear of practicality by bringing the beast to Santa Fe for a vacation, and overhauling it myself. Since my horns are kept in a similar condition as my bedroom, record collection, hair, etc., I have no idea where to begin to address this mess.
The horn has lots of octave keys problems, the thing just doesn't work unless I giggle it around first (the key, not the whole horn). I want to repad the whole thing, using cork pads where possible. I also want to clean it and oil it, maybe even polish it-if that helps it play. I plan to order a bunch of stuff from that place in Flint, but I need to know the cheapest way to get only the most crucial tools, glue, and oil.
I have a whole week to do this but I need to move fast- I leave in 2 weeks. Thanks a lot, Stuart
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Author: J.Butler
Date: 1999-05-17 21:33
I don't mean to rain on your parade or anything because I've been fussed at before on advising people not to do this extensive type of work themselves unless they really know how the mechanics of the instruments works. Also pads and equipment in order to do a satisfactory job can be more expensive than you would like to spend. Contact Ferree's at 1477 E. Michigan Ave, Battle Creek Mi 49014 (1-800-253-2261). They will have the equipment you need to get started. You'll need a screwdriver and cement. I still favor the shellac, but not liquid shellac. Some techs use hot melt glue that has a high melting temperature. Votaw Tool in Springfield Mo has it available. You'll need cork in the size of "1/16" inch for tenons and thinner sizes for key cork. You'll need a heat source for getting the pads installed. An alcohol lamp provides and inexpensive option for that. Also a leveling tool (pad slick) of some kind will be needed to shift the pad around until it becomes level. Also you will need a leak light in order to see where the pads are leaking. You may be able to make a "feeler guage" out of mylar or goldbeater skin, but a leak light does work better on bass clarinet. Pad sets are not guarenteed to be correct, so if you order a set you may still be going to a music dealer to get a pad or two. This is the basic minimum for a repad. There is a lot of other tools and equipment used for an overhaul. Good Luck.
J. Butler
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Author: Mike
Date: 1999-05-18 11:02
If you can physically move the rods around where they attach to the posts via pivot screws, you may want to try getting some cloth string (preferably violin string or string used to wrap bassoon tenons) and wrapping the thread of each screw.
Let me further explain. Remove the parts in question, one at a time for the purpose of reducing confusion upon reassembly. Take each pivot screw and wrap a piece of string around the threads and reinstall through the post and into the rod.
You may have to try this method a few times on each key assembly before the correct feel is attained and the lost motion has been removed.
On keys where rods run through the key, you're only real option is to go to an instrument repair shop and have the keys swedged; that is, unless you own a pair of swedging pliers or have friends in the instrument repair business.
Both of these methods work--good luck in your conquest.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-05-18 14:31
May I suggest from my own experience in working on my Selmer 33 an older Conn, and an earlier LeBlanc, consider taking a lesson or so from an experienced [on Bass!] repairman. A number of the pad-seatings are critical to performance without squeeking [or non-response] and for me require careful use a leak light. Nevertheless, LOL. Don
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Author: stuart
Date: 1999-05-18 17:07
Wow! Thanks for the respones! Just last night my buddies were warning me to take pictures of the key set so I don't get all confused. They expect me to come home with a bag of keys and a tube!
Anyway, I'm still a little confused about wrapping the screws with bassoon string. Isn't that string too thick to wrap a little screw? And should adding clutter to the thing inhibit motion?
I trust that it works, but if someone could explain to me what it actualy does, I'd understand.
I also don't know what the heck it means to swedge a key. My Ferre catalogue is gonna be in the mail today, I just might order a swedger or two (my credit card came yesterday). Thanks again, Stuart
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 1999-05-18 17:23
There a number of ways in which one can keep pivot screws and rods properly located. I merely replace them [one at a time] from whence they came, even tho it makes the cleaning of the joint's exterior a bit more difficult. My repair friends generally use a drilled-out board [for sop clar]where the pattern is clear. Because there are many tricks-in-this-trade is why I suggest lessons. Don
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