 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2018-07-11 00:06
While I've "sort of" asked these questions in the past (indirectly)...I'm still searching for opinions, and figured it would be best to directly ask these questions:
1. I have several old (1890s-1910s) metal clarinets. Some which are collector's items, some which are run-of-the-mill. I've always kept these instruments in their "original" cases, or bound them in material which was native to the era (cotton batting, leather scabbards, etc.) Would modern cases/glues/adhesives/foam/etc. harm the plating on these older instruments? (Some are nickle plated, some are silver plated, some are gold plated.) My fear is that chemicals used in the manufacture of modern velvet, felt, glue, etc. might react to the plating somehow.
2. For years, I have toyed with the idea of creating custom cases for a few of these instruments. I've always been a little held up by not knowing the answer to my first question, but also...would it be advisable, or inadvisable to start with a block of wood, and carve out exact (slightly oversized to allow for padding) impressions of the clarinets (at least for the non-lid side)? Is it better to leave air pockets in the case to create a skeletal frame to allow for "crush zones" in the event the case meets unexpected damage, or would a solid design add more strength and better protection? Some of these clarinets are double-walled, and thus fairly susceptible to damage from dents/etc.
3. Would hardening leather (by "boiling" - actually not boiling, but at somewhere in the neighborhood of 190 degree Fahrenheit) be a worthwhile endeavor? For use either as a case's outer covering, or for use as a more rigid scabbard? Would the boiling process (if recommended) be better in simple water...or wax?
I understand these questions don't necessarily have a single "correct" answer, and might be based as much on personal experience/opinion as on fact, but I'd sure appreciate hearing of any such experiences, thoughts, facts, or opinions the rest of you might offer.
Thanks!
Fuzzy
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2018-07-11 00:55
1) Actually the materials used in older cases causes metal to tarnish faster, specifically the sulfur compounds in some glues. New adhesives and materials are far superior in every way.
2) Some flute cases are made like this, but it would be far too heavy for a clarinet. Cases are generally made from thin plywood or a plastic shell. Plywood is probably best for DIY.
3) Hardened leather will not protect the instrument from bending, which is the biggest concern with metal clarinets. You can use leather for the outer covering but it would not be advisable to boil it as it needs to be soft to stretch it over the wood shell.
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: John Morton
Date: 2018-07-12 06:45
After tediously making a small arched case for an antique guitar, I decided my time was better spent practicing!
My White Silver King (no center joint) lives in the classy original case. I proudly carry it around, but seeing the wear on the corners and handle I bought a cloth camera tripod case that serves as a cover. The old case would not be a huge project for a woodworker to duplicate, basically a tapered rectangular prism. The clarinet body rests on padded blocks at either end, and there is an extra inch of width that accommodates mouthpiece, barrel and a cute little reed box (that is too short for modern reeds). I have added some places next to those items to hold: two Vandoren reed cases; a tube of cork grease turned on its end; and a spot for a film cannister of water I use for a quick dip before playing. That stuff is all one compartment, formed from thin brass sheet and slid over the front lower lip of the case.
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2018-07-12 08:59
Thank you both for the responses.
That case of John's is in really good shape! I have a couple that are in good shape, and some that are pretty rough.
The cases I'm thinking of retiring are for the 1880's - 1890's era Conns. The metal Conns break down like a normal clarinet, but I'm thinking of making a long case in which to leave the clarinet assembled from my office to the gig(s). For reasons not important to the design of the case, I prefer to leave these clarinets assembled.
As per the leather (and hardening), from everything I've researched...if I keep the temperature at 190 (plus or minus - I'll have to find the exact temp again), it will allow me to stretch the leather over a form while still hot/wet, and clamp/nail it into place until it dries/hardens. The key point being that you shouldn't actually bring the leather to a temp above roughly 190 degrees, or the shrinkage becomes too severe to stretch and hold over a form. I plan to have a form of the exact same size/shape of my case - and I plan to use too much leather, so that the hardened leather might be cut down to size and (after removed from the form) either glued or nailed to the actual case.
I'm not convinced that using a solid block of wood would make the case too heavy...at least if I only made the bottom half of the case (where the clarinet would reside after opening) solid. I was thinking of a simple "pillow" type top - much like in John's picture labeled "hnwhiteinside.jpg".
If I were to attempt a scabbard, I would first create a wooden form for the leather and let it dry tacked to that form.
(I have no experience with hardened leather, though - just repeating what I anticipate based on what I've read).
I'd be interested in types of adhesive to either use or avoid. I'd also be interested in knowing whether I should avoid certain types/formulas of foam.
Thanks again for the insights and ideas.
Fuzzy
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